Provence-Alpes-Côtes d’Azur Region

A trip to Provence would not be complete without spending some time in Avignon. We almost passed on this opportunity but I’m so glad we carved out some time to explore this beautiful medieval town - even if just for a little while.

As we travel with our kids, we are always looking for ways to make history come to life for them. One of the benefits of homeschooling is being able to incorporate real-life experiences that will help them better understand and apply the things they’ve learned. This stop in Avignon not only helped to break up one of our longer travel days (always a plus) but it also gave us all a great education.

The city of Avignon was not one that our girls had ever heard of before and yet it played  a significant role in the history of Christianity. Our exploration of the city provided us with a beautiful day (despite the gloomy weather) touring a fantastic city, stunning architecture, and even some moments of play with other kids. The opportunity to pair a wonderful visit with some meaningful historical facts made this a memorable educational experience for all of us.

First Impressions

Known as the City of Popes, Avignon is located on the banks of the Rhône River in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. The city center is encircled by medieval walls that were built to provide protection to the papacy in the 14th century. During a time of political instability, this town offered a safe and stable shelter for the papacy for almost 7 decades. The historic center, which includes the Palais des Papes, the cathedral, and the Pont d'Avignon, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 because of its architecture and its importance during the 14th and 15th centuries.

We got our first look at the beautiful walled city center as we drove through Avignon on our way from Nîmes to Nice. We had determined that we wouldn’t have time to stop in the city but, in seeing it, we felt regret in not being able to explore. (We had faced this several times on our journey through France. Despite having 3 months, we were constantly adding places to our list for “next time in France.” This one was quickly added to the list.)

Thankfully, our next chance came much sooner than we anticipated. Less than two weeks after our first look, we found ourselves in the area again as we were leaving the PACA region to make our way back to Lyon. This time, Kevin drove us through one of the gates directly into the city center for a quick look around. While it is possible to drive into the walled city center of Avignon, I don’t recommend doing so without a plan as the streets are quite narrow and difficult to navigate (we curbed it twice and found ourselves in a square with no obvious exit).

Once we got our bearings, we decided we wanted to spend some time walking and exploring the city center. We found the underground parking garage and emerged in Place de l’Horloge with the impressive view of both the Palais des Papes and Cathédrale Notre-Dame-des-Doms d’Avignon. We truly weren’t prepared to make the most of our visit. We had almost no knowledge of the significance of the city. That said, we thoroughly enjoyed our exploration and have come to learn so much more about Avignon and wanted to help you be better prepared when you have the chance to see it.

Click on photo to enlarge and see descriptions.

History of Avignon

The city’s history dates back to long before the Romans established their trade routes through the South of France. It was during the 14th century, however, that Avignon reached the pinnacle of its prominence. In 1309, French-born Pope Clément V was elected pope during a time of political chaos in Rome. He refused to move from France and ordered that the papacy be relocated to Avignon. For the next 67 years, Avignon became the seat of power for the Catholic Church as a total of 9 popes reigned from the city, though the last two were considered anti-popes by the Vatican.

Public spaces were cleared to make way for the construction of a three-acre papal palace. The Palace of the Popes became the most fortified palace in existence with 10-foot thick walls to protect the papacy. In 1355, Pope Innocent IV ordered the construction of a protective wall around the city. The wall, stretching more than three miles in circumference, included 39 towers. Avignon became one of Europe’s largest construction zones as mansions were built for cardinals and the population grew from 6,000 to over 25,000! 

On September 13, 1376, Pope Gregory XI left Avignon and moved his court to Rome (where he arrived in January) bringing an official end to the Avignon Papacy. His death in 1378 triggered a split in the Roman Catholic Church. While Urban VI was elected in Rome, a group of French cardinals declared his election invalid and elected Clement VII in Avignon. This schism lasted through several popes both in Rome and Avignon, some of whom were later declared illegitimate before Italian-born Pope Martin V was finally elected in 1417 and ruled until his death in 1431.

Preparing for Your Visit

• Where is Avignon? – Avignon is in the heart of the Provence region, along the banks of the Rhône River. The city is about 680km south of Paris (6 hours driving), 60km inland from the sea, and about 100km (1.25 hours driving) from Marseille.

• Best time to visit – It’s always beautiful in Avignon. Summer, however, is hot and crowded. It’s also festival season in the city so you’ll want to be prepared for a more expensive and busier experience. Late fall through early spring provides mild and cooler temperatures and fewer crowds. We loved our impromptu visit in November because it felt like we had the place mostly to ourselves. However, fewer cafes and shops are open during this time. The ticket office is also closed in the winter months, so you’ll need to plan ahead and book your tours or city pass online.

• How to get to Avignon

• Take the Train: The train station is located just outside the city walls and is easily accessible. Paris to Avignon takes about 3 hours on the TGV.

• Fly: There is a small international Airport called “Avignon-Provence” a few kilometers from the city.

• Take a Bus: The Bus station is near the train station and is very well connected to other cities in France and Europe.

• Drive: You can easily drive to Avignon from Paris or any other major city. We had a rental car during this portion of our travels and parking was simple once we realized where we needed to go.

• Parking – There are 5 park and ride facilities located outside the city center. (This is the preferred option for parking.) Some are free and some require a small fee. Choose your lot and ride the bus, tram, or shuttle into the city center. There is also the Palais des Papes carpark, an underground parking garage that requires a fee but is just steps away from everything you’re going to want to see. If you happen to be staying in a hotel in the city center, your hotel may provide a discount for this lot during your stay. For more information, and addresses for the parking lots click here.

• Where to Stay – This really depends on how much time you want to spend in the city. We believe that the city center can be properly explored in less than a full day. We stayed in an Airbnb that was located less than half an hour’s drive east of Avignon where we could get a couple days of school and work done on our way from Nice back to Lyon. There are some hotels located right in the city center that would put you steps away from the historic monuments. It all just depends on what kind of experience you want to have and the time of year you plan to visit. During the busier season, the ease of access might make staying in the city worthwhile. It would also give you the chance to enjoy the seasonal cafes and restaurants during your stay.

What to See & Do in Avignon

At the heart of Avignon, the Place de l’Horloge is lined with shady trees and cafés where you can sit and enjoy lunch while taking in the sight of the beautiful monuments nearby. The cobblestone streets and serene setting will make you feel as though you’ve stepped back to a simpler time.

If you’re going to be spending a full day or more in Avignon and plan to tour multiple sites, you may want to invest in the Avignon City Pass. It could save you up to 50 euros on tickets and parking. Included in the pass are the Palais de Papes, Pont Saint-Bénézet (Pont d’Avignon), Fort Saint-André, Angladon Museum, Louis Vouland Museum, and the Lambert Collection (collection of contemporary art).

If you’re mainly interested in touring the Palace, click here for several options for tickets or ticket packages that include a tour of the Palace. Histopads are conveniently offered with your admission to the Palace. We’ve mentioned Histopads many times as we’ve written about our various tours throughout France. From the Louvre and Versailles to the various castles in the Loire Valley, these devices that bring the past alive onscreen are a wonderful tool, particularly for kids. We found that they kept our youngest engaged and piqued her curiosity for hours during tours when she might have otherwise grown bored.

• Palais des Papes – The Papal Palace is the world’s largest gothic palace (15,000 square meters - the equivalent to the volume of 4 Gothic cathedrals). It took less than 20 years to build, beginning in 1335. The palace itself is a fusion of two palaces. The Old Palace was built by Benedict XII to the east and north and the New Palace was built by his successor Clement VI to the south and west. Boasting ten towers, it came to symbolize the mighty influence of the Catholic Church. At one time, it housed Europe’s largest library, and became a hotbed for thinkers, philosophers, composers, and musicians.

  Today, there are 25 rooms open to the public, including the private apartments of the popes who reigned at this site during the 14th century. The included Histopad tour provides visitors with depictions of the rooms as they were in the days of the popes. The Palace welcomes more than 650,000 visitors per year making it one of the 10 most-visited monuments in France.

• Cathédrale Notre-Dame-des-Doms d'Avignon – This towering basilica was built on the Rocher des Doms and it overlooks both the Pope’s Palace and the Rhône valley. While there are mentions of a church on the site dating back to 1037, the current basilica was built in the 12th century in three successive phases. First came the belltower and nave, followed by the cupola, and lastly the portico which was influenced by Roman architecture. The cathedral was enlarged during the last two centuries of the Middle Ages, with the addition of side chapels. It was renovated and elements were again added in the late 17th century. The bell tower is now topped with a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary.

This beautiful cathedral has a Romanesque interior and it is embellished with mural paintings as well as framed paintings. In the crossing to the left stands a 12th-century bishop’s chair of white marble. In the Baptistery, you’ll find early 15th-century frescoes that portray the Baptism of Christ adorning the walls. There is a chapel with the tomb of Pope John XXII, and the church treasure of liturgical vestments and sacred vessels. The church serves as the seat of the current Archbishop of Avignon. (If you decide to take a peek inside, please use discretion, particularly during services.)

• Pont Saint-Bénézet – The Saint-Bénézet bridge (also referred to as Pont d’Avignon) was built in the 12th century. At the time it was built, it was considered an amazing engineering accomplishment. It once linked the two banks of the Rhône River. Unfortunately, flooding on the river destroyed parts of the bridge throughout its history. Each time, the bridge was rebuilt, but it was finally abandoned in the 17th Century. It now ends halfway across the river with only 4 of the original 22 arches remaining. Visitors can walk out to the midpoint of the river for a beautiful view back toward the Palais des Papes.

According to the legend associated with the bridge, in the year 1177 a young shepherd named Bénézet was instructed by angels to build a bridge over the  Rhône River. The town’s founders and citizens mocked the idea. However, Bénézet was endowed with the strength to raise a giant lump of rock, which the townspeople recognized as a sign from God. The legend is made more believable by the fact that the bridge was built in only eight years.

• Theater Festival of Avignon – During the summer, the courtyard of the palace hosts several festivals, including the Theater Festival of Avignon. This festival, which began in 1947 is one of the world’s most important contemporary performing arts events. Each July, more than 125,000 people gather to attend shows and performances throughout Avignon.

• Musée du Petit Palais – The Petit Palais (or small palace), now a museum, was once a cardinal’s palace. It was originally the residence of the bishops of Avignon. It was later expanded during the 14th and 15th centuries. Found on display inside is the Church's collection of medieval Italian paintings and sculptures. Visiting this museum before going to the Palace of the Popes might help you better understand how the mostly empty Pope’s Palace was likely furnished and adorned during the Avignon papacy.

• Le Jardin du Rochers des Doms – Le Jardin du Rocher des Doms is an English-style garden that sits on the rock overlooking the Palais des Papes. It rises 30 meters above the Rhône and offers a magnificent panoramic view of the old town, its monuments, and the landscapes of the Rhône plain to Mont Ventoux. Archaeological studies attest to a human occupation that dates to the Neolithic Age. During the 19th century, much work went into developing it into the garden it is today. Trees were planted, water reservoirs were set up, a basin was created, and statues were placed.

Today, it’s a popular place for locals to enjoy a walk or a picnic lunch.  Ducks and swans populate the lake and children are drawn to the two playgrounds. A restaurant is open daily from spring until fall. Please note that the garden will be closed beginning in September to undergo some major renovations. It is scheduled to reopen in March of 2026.

• Le Petit Train d’Avignon – If you’re visiting with young kids, this is the best way to tour Avignon. Providing a perfect introduction to the city is the Little Train, a miniature trolley like train which leaves from the Palais des Papes on a 40 minute tour of the city and includes medieval streets and neighborhoods along with the Pont d’Avignon. Tickets are very reasonable and the tour is available in a variety of languages via headphones.

We are so glad we took the time to stop in Avignon and learn all about this incredible city’s history. While it will be awhile before the garden renovations are completed, I am confident that the upgrades will make the Avignon experience even more impressive. From its city walls and Papal Palace to its impressive bridge and beautiful views of the Rhône Valley, Avignon is a must-see location! We hope we’ve inspired you to follow your instincts and make those special stops along your journeys.