Occitanie Region

“A visit to this thriving town rewards you with impressive Roman monuments and peaceful, pedestrian-polished streets that feel like a secret between its well-heeled residents.”

— Rick Steves

We learned so much history as we traveled through France. As we were making our way across the Occitanie region, we were learning just how much the Romans had influenced this part of the country. One of the places where that influence can most be seen is the town of Nîmes. It was here that we observed ancient Roman architecture and engineering on full display. We immersed ourselves in history and tried to imagine ourselves stepping back in time as we explored.

“French Rome”

Originally a Celtic city dating back to around 500 BC, Nîmes became a part of the Roman Empire over 2,000 years ago. In the first century BC, Emperor Augustus made it a regional capital. Roman architecture has defined Nîmes ever since. Augustus and his successors built one of the longest protective walls in the Roman world around Nîmes and constructed a 30-mile-long aqueduct to bring water to its growing population.

The Market

We fell in love with Nîmes from the moment we arrived. The beautiful cobblestone streets and ancient buildings blended seamlessly with sidewalk cafes and local shops and restaurants. We enjoyed walking through this old town and visiting Les Halles Market which is located in the center of town. This covered, air-conditioned market has an abundant selection of fresh seafood, meat, produce, breads, cheeses, and pastries. You can stock up on groceries, have a snack, or purchase everything you need for a picnic lunch. We all selected a sweet treat, finding a place in the adjacent mall to sit and enjoy it while people-watching.

Click on photo to enlarge and see descriptions.

The Museum

Our first stop after the market was the Musée de la Romanité (Roman Museum). This museum, dedicated to telling the history of Nîmes, gave us so much insight into the town’s history from the 7th century BC to the Middle Ages. Located directly across from the ancient arena, the museum itself is a contemporary architectural masterpiece. Created by Elizabeth de Portzamparc, the innovative design includes an impressive curved glass facade, a Mediterranean garden, and a restaurant and planted terrace, offering a 360-degree view of Nîmes and its stunning Roman architecture.

Upon entering the museum, you’ll find yourself in an open and airy atrium flooded with natural light. The soaring ceiling and contemporary open spiral staircase allow visitors multiple uninterrupted views of the 2,000 year old Arena. As we made our way upstairs, we were treated to an incredible journey back through time as each era of the town’s history was brought to life with videos, photos, diagrams, and artifacts. The interactive exhibits kept our kids engaged and entertained during our visit. English translations were readily available so we had no difficulty understanding. The Littles were also provided with a booklet at the front desk that gave them several things to look for as they toured. Upon completing this little scavenger hunt, they were presented with a pin as their reward.

One of our favorite exhibits included a 35 square meter mosaic that is one of the best preserved in the world. Discovered in 2006, the piece dates back to the 3rd century AD and depicts a colorful mythological story of Pentheus. Pentheus, who was the king of Thebes, was killed by his own mother and aunts for denying the divinity of his cousin Dionysus. In a fit of rage Dionysus, the son of Zeus, imbued the women with madness and extraordinary strength. Mistaking Pentheus for a lion, his own mother tore him limb from limb and mounted his head on a spike. She was unaware of her own actions until the madness subsided and she was faced with the consequences of her actions.

One of the other areas we really enjoyed while at the museum was an entire section dedicated to Roman architecture. It gave the history of the Nîmes Arena and included a 1:100 scale model, in cork, of the building, compared to a similar one of the Colosseum in Rome. While the better known structure in Rome is twice the size, much of their design and construction is the same. We are glad that we made our first stop here because it gave us a better perspective and appreciation for the structure we would tour later.

The Arena

After our visit to the museum, we made our way over to the Arena. The Arena in Nîmes is a very close ½ scale replica of the Roman Colosseum. Its construction dates back to the late 1st and early 2nd century so it was built around the same time as the more famous structure in Rome. The very existence of an arena in Nîmes is a nod to the city’s importance during the Roman Empire. These amphitheaters were a symbol of prestige; a place for Roman leaders to host games and shows for large crowds. The arena of Nîmes is one of the best preserved from the ancient Roman era. The elliptical structure can seat around 20,000 people.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Visigoths used the arena as a fortress where the people of Nîmes took refuge during invasions. At one point, a whole village, including houses and churches, existed within the arena. Restoration began in 1786 but was interrupted during the French Revolution. Today, the arena is open to the public. It hosts concerts and special events throughout the year. Visitors can enjoy an audio-guided tour or just wander through the public spaces.

In late April to early May, each year, a huge reenactment of the ancient Roman games takes place. The Grands Jeux Romains is one of the largest reenactments of ancient history in Europe. Event coordinators work closely with historians to create historically accurate costumes and combat choreography to treat visitors to an incredible show. The entire town gets in on the action as more than 500 “Romans” parade through the streets toward the Arena. Visitors can enjoy music and street food throughout the day. (If you want tickets for the event, you’ll need to plan ahead to secure a seat inside the Arena.)

In addition to Roman events, Spanish bullfighting has been a staple at the Arena since 1863. La Féria de Nîmes, which consists of two festivals each year - Feria de Pentecôte and Feria des Vendanges - draws hundreds of thousands to Nîmes each year. The Feria de Pentecôte takes place on Pentecost (May or June) each year with 6 days of festivities, including concerts, street food, bull running, and bull fights. The Feria des Vendanges is the festival that closes the bullfighting season each September. Our girls enjoyed learning about the bullfighting events that take place here, including seeing some of the attire on display, and they even staged a little bullfighting exhibition of their own when we wandered out onto the large arena floor.

The Jardins de la Fontaine

During the 18th century, the remains of Roman baths were discovered in Nîmes. In 1745, Jacques-Philippe Mareschal, military engineer of King Louis XV, began creating gardens right where these ancient baths had been found. Located in the middle of Nîmes, the Jardins de la Fontaine were some of the first public gardens in Europe. Spanning over 15 hectares, the gardens are divided into two sections - the classical garden, which was created in the 1800s, and the Mediterranean garden, which was created in the 1900s.

Each August, a water and light show called Féérie des Eaux attracts over 30,000 visitors. In addition to a variety of plant species, the gardens also feature fountains, statues, and even a temple. The gardens are a favorite location for tourists as well as locals. If you’re looking for a peaceful place to enjoy a walk and have lots of opportunities for photos, this is your spot! (Entry is free.)

Temple de Diana

This ancient Roman temple was built in the 1st century BC. The facade was rebuilt during the 2nd century AD and it was home to a monastery during medieval times which ensured that it wouldn’t be destroyed. Located within the Jardins de la Fontaine, the temple was excavated in 1745 during the work to create the gardens. It holds a bit of mystery as no one knows what function it served or even the origin of its name. It features vaulted ceilings, arches, and passageways. Some corridors originally led to a higher level, indicating that it was likely a library rather than a temple, despite its name. The temple can be accessed for free from the Jardins de la Fontaine.

La Tour Magne

During the Roman era, Nîmes was surrounded by walls that fortified the town. Along the walls were 80 towers. The Tour Magne was the largest. Today, it is the only one that still stands as the final remaining vestige of the ancient walls of Nîmes. At 32 meters high, it is the highest point in the town. Visitors that are willing to climb the 140 steps to the top are treated to beautiful panoramic views of Nîmes. La Tour Magne may be accessed from the Jardins de la Fontaine and a small fee of around 3 Euros will allow you to climb to the top.

Maison Carrée

The Maison Carrée of Nîmes was built in the 1st century AD. It was built during the reign of Emperor Augustus and dedicated to Gaius and his younger brother Lucius Caesar. They were the sons of General Agrippa and Julia, daughter of Augustus. Augustus adopted his grandsons after the death of Agrippa and made them his heirs. Unfortunately, they both died young leaving Augustus’ stepson Tiberius (whom he had also adopted) as his heir.

Recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, the structure resembles a small version of the Parthenon with its tall Corinthian columns. It is one of the best preserved Roman temples in existence. The building has been in continuous use since the 11th century, functioning as a church, a private home, stable, and consular headquarters. The Maison Carrée is sometimes closed to visitors but it is still impressive to view from the exterior.

Tickets & Bundles

There are so many things to see in and around Nîmes. If you plan to be in the area for more than a day, you might want to take advantage of either the Nîmes City Pass or the Romanité Pass. In addition to all the places located within easy walking distance of each other, Pont du Gard is located just outside the city. The Nîmes City Pass can be purchased for 2 days, 4 days, or 7 days and will provide you with admission to all of the various sites you’d want to see, including Pont du Gard, and even a choice of a guided tour or a ride on the Little Train (a great way for your little ones to experience Nîmes). The Romanité Pass might be for you if you’re only planning to visit Nîmes for the day (and yes, you can get to all the included sites in one day if you manage your time well). For a list of opening hours and prices for the museums and monuments in Nîmes, visit this link. For more comprehensive information on the bundle passes, please see the information below.

Nîmes City Pass might be the best value depending on what you want to see.

2 days (29 euro), 4 days (37 euro), or 7 days (39 euro). Your pass includes one admission to each of the following:

The Roman Amphitheatre
Maison Carrée
Musée de la Romanité
Abbatiale de Saint-Gilles (12th century abbey and church)
Carré d'Art Jean Bousquet
A Guided Tour OR a 35-minute guided Little Train Tour of Nîmes (in French)
Museum of Natural History
Fine Arts Museum
Bull Museum Henriette Claude Viallat
Museum of Old Nîmes
Pont du Gard (includes museum)
Tour Magne

Romanité Pass costs 17 euro for an individual or 48 euro for a family of 2 adults and 2 children and includes 1 admission for a self-guided tour to each of the following:

Musée de la Romanité
The Roman Amphitheatre
Maison Carrée
Tour Magne

Nîmes was one of our favorite cities in France. It has clearly served an important role in several eras throughout history and yet it maintains the comforting feel of a quaint village. It provided all the beautiful architectural details that appealed to Rachel’s eyes as an artist. It also piqued Sophie’s interest as the Roman ingenuity sparked her curious brain. We had moments of intense focus as we learned and we enjoyed moments of playful activity as we explored. We would definitely recommend adding a visit to Nîmes to your family travel itinerary!

Nîmes, France