Family Travel to Sète, France
Occitanie Region
“To reach a port we must sail, sometimes with the wind, and sometimes against it. But we must not drift or lie at anchor.”
View of fishing boats moored in the canal in Sète.
After leaving Saint-Frichoux, we pointed our rental car toward our next stay near Nîmes. We decided to take the route that would give us occasional views of the Mediterranean Sea along the way. At our halfway point, we were coming into the town of Sète. Even though it wasn’t on our planned itinerary of France, we decided to make a stop and explore for a little while.
The town of Sète, nestled between the Mediterranean Sea and Étang de Thau (a large lagoon), is a beautiful fishing and trade port. It is affectionately referred to as the “little Venice of Languedoc” (Languedoc is a former province of France that is now part of the Occitanie region), thanks to the canals that run throughout the city. It is also home to the largest fishing port in the south of France.
Sète Provides the Sea Exit for the Canal du Midi
Sète was founded by Louis XIV (yep, that guy had a hand in everything), back in 1666. It was chosen as the sea exit for the Canal du Midi that was about to begin construction. For hundreds of years, the idea of connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea was an unreachable goal. The Romans, Charlemagne, and King Henri IV all dreamed of building a water highway but none could conceive a plan.
In the early 1660’s a working plan was submitted to King Louis XIV and construction began in 1667. It took until 1681 before the first boat traffic could make the journey. The Canal du Midi was an engineering marvel that paved the way for the Industrial Revolution in France. It is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site based on Outstanding Universal Value. UNESCO states that “the care its creator, Pierre-Paul Riquet, took in the design and the way it blends with its surroundings turned a technical achievement into a work of art.” The 360km network includes 328 structures of locks, aqueducts, bridges, and tunnels.
The Canal du Midi runs from Étang de Thau all the way to the city of Toulouse. Toulouse is then connected to the Atlantic Ocean by the Garonne River. This waterway provided a safe route, avoiding the pirates of the Gibraltar straits, and shortened the distance for provided goods. Over the centuries, traffic on the canal increased and created a booming economy for Sète. Over time, other forms of cargo transport became available. The town became connected by train to Montpelier as early as 1839. Once trains and large trucks became the preferred mode of transport, traffic on the canal decreased significantly. Today, the waterway provides a popular tourist attraction with over 10,000 boat passengers enjoying their holiday on the scenic canal.
Sète’s Italian Influence
Along with being often compared to Venice due to all of its canals, Sète also has a very strong cultural identity that includes significant Italian influence. A large number of residents trace their roots to Naples, Italy. During the 18th century, Italian fishermen from the poor Neapolitan coast came to Sète in droves to make a living and put down roots. They brought with them some rich traditions and culinary specialties that uniquely blended with those of the people of Languedoc to create new foods, traditions, and even a unique dialect. Many of these Italian ancestors are buried in the Cimetière Marin on the South-facing hillside. If you stroll along the old streets of the Quartier Haut you’re likely to hear the local dialect which is half Languedoc and half Italian. The culture is also reflected in the local food specialties like tielle (a pastry pie stuffed with squid in spicy tomato sauce).
What to Do and See in Sète
Sète is divided into two sections and both are worth exploring. Low town encompasses the downtown area, the port, the canals, and the lagoon. You’ll find beautiful homes and restaurants along the canals, near the port. The high town is located on Mont Saint-Clair and includes a chapel, Pierres Blanches forest, and Quartier Haut which is the oldest neighborhood in the town. From the summit of Mont Saint-Clair (175 meters above sea level) you’ll have an entirely different perspective with gorgeous views of the Mediterranean Sea, the Thau, the Pyrenees Mountains, and the port town below.
Explore the shops and restaurants that border the canals – We had limited time on the day of our visit so our time was spent only in the port area but we saw enough to know we’d love to return and explore this beautiful town more completely. We arrived and found parking in an underground lot that was actually located under a canal. Parking spaces were quite tight (even more than we’d become accustomed to while traveling in France). Kevin expertly maneuvered our larger-than-average SUV rental into a spot. (Note: Be sure to take your parking ticket with you because it’s the only way you can re-enter the parking garage when you’re ready to leave.)
The canal is not lined with chain restaurants. Instead, you’ll find cute shops and delicious restaurants owned and operated by locals and serving up delicious cuisine. We spent a little over an hour wandering alongside the canal and across the bridges admiring the beautiful setting. We enjoyed seeing all the fishing boats moored there along with the drying nets and equipment after a morning of fishing.
Click on photo to enlarge and see descriptions.
Experience market day at the marina on Wednesdays – Local seafood is a hallmark of the gastronomic culture in Sète. You won’t want to miss the experience of the covered market at Les Halles. The fish and shellfish offered are mostly harvested directly from the nearby sea or the Thau Lagoon, and it is some of the freshest in France. Many of the vendors offer oysters for customers to sample right at the booths! Squid and octopus are also found in abundance at the market and on the restaurant menus at many local spots. In addition, there’s plenty of Italian food that reflects the strong presence of the city’s Italian ancestry.
Appreciate the beauty of the Étang de Thau – The Étang de Thau, or Thau Lake as it is often called, is the biggest in the Occitanie region (7,500 hectares)! It is packed with biodiversity and famous for its oyster farming. The Étang de Thau also provides a rich habitat for a variety of wildlife, particularly birds, including herons and even pink flamingos.
Enjoy a beach day – Sète boasts 12km of golden sand beaches, which are much less commercially developed than the better known coastlines farther east. This area of France comes in 2nd, just behind the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur Region, for the cleanliness of its lakes and beaches. In addition, Sète sees about 320 days of sunshine each year with temperatures remaining comfortable all year. Summer highs reach into the low to mid 80’s and winter lows drop into the 40’s. Adjacent to the beach is the Lido Promenade. It’s similar to a boardwalk you might find along beaches in the U.S. You’ll often find people walking or biking the path which stretches the entire 12km between Sète and Marseillan and includes restroom facilities and first aid posts at intervals along the way. These amenities make a day at the beach much more comfortable.
See a show at the stunning Théâtre de la Mer – The Théâtre de la Mer structure has stood at the base of Mont Saint-Clair for over 3 centuries! Originally constructed as a defense against sea attacks, it has also served as a military barracks and a hospital. Today, it is widely considered the most beautiful Italian style theater in the south of France, offering around 40 performances a year. It is sometimes also referred to as the Jean Vilar Theater as a nod to one of Sète’s most famous sons.
Enjoy the unique culture of the community – While Sète’s Italian heritage is reflected in the local dialect (a mixture of Italian and Occitan) and the food, the city also has rich Catalan and North African influences. For a look at the urban side, you can take a free, self guided tour of Musée à Ciel Ouvert (MaCO). The name, which literally means “open-air museum,” includes a collection of graffiti that is found in the town center in a gallery that exists on the walls of the buildings. Sète also hosts the K-LIVE festival each spring that celebrates the sea, art, and sound. The festival culminates with a concert on the stage of the Théâtre de la Mer that overlooks the Mediterranean.
Venture through the Pointe Courte district – This small fisherman’s neighborhood is located in the north of Sète, between Canal Royal and the Étang de Thau. It dates back to the mid 19th century and was built by those who made their living fishing and oyster farming. The inhabitants of this area creatively decorate their small, brightly colored huts with shells, signs, and other items that reflect the marine culture that supports these families.
Climb to the top of the Saint-Louis Lighthouse – The Saint-Louis Lighthouse sits at the end of Le Môle Saint-Louis, Sète’s pier. The 650 meter long cobbled pier was originally built back in 1666 as the town’s first major project after its founding. The lighthouse stands 33 meters high and marks the entrance to the port. The original structure was built around the year 1680. It was reconstructed, however, in 1948 after being destroyed by German mines in the events of World War II. You can purchase a ticket (for around 4 euros) that will give you access and allow you to climb the 126 steps of the spiral staircase to the top. There, you’ll be treated to a 360-degree view of the sea and the town of Sète. For a list of opening times, visit this link.
Take a stroll on the Corniche – The Corniche Walk sits at around 10 meters above sea level. It runs adjacent to the beach and offers a path for walkers and bikers to enjoy an unobstructed view of the sea. It starts at the Théâtre de la Mer and runs about 2km. (This is a great place to catch a gorgeous sunset view.)
Tour the Musée Paul Valéry – The Musée Paul Valéry, dedicated to Sète’s own famous poet, essayist, and philosopher, is located on the slope of Mont Saint-Clair. In addition to 80 manuscripts that belonged to Paul Valéry, it boasts a fine arts collection with over 700 paintings and more than a thousand drawings. The graphic arts collection includes works by Degas, Cézanne, and Matisse.
Climb to Mont Saint-Clair – A hike to the top of Mont Saint-Clair helps to provide perspective of the two parts of Sète. You can hike to the top, but it’s also accessible by car or you can even catch the bus to the top. (If you plan to hike, be sure to wear good shoes.) At 175 meters above sea level, you’ll be treated to a stunning panoramic view. From here, you can see the Pyrenees Mountains, the Étang de Thau, and the Mediterranean Sea that is separated from the Thau by a long section of raised sand.
While at the top of Mont Saint-Clair, you should take a self guided tour of Notre-Dame-de-la-Salette. The church, which was built in 1861, is a unique chapel that has played a significant role in the lives of the fishermen that make their living in Sète. It is adorned with brightly colored painted walls. The Virgin Mary is said to have appeared on this site in 1846 weeping over the excesses of Christians. The statue in the courtyard appears to reflect her sad features. Located nearby is Cimetière Marin, where Sète’s two most famous residents are buried: poet Paul Valéry and actor/theater director Jean Vilar.
Explore the Quartier Haut – This district of Sète is also known as Petit Naples because of the large Italian community that resides here. It is located on a hillside overlooking the port in the oldest district in town. Small homes, artists’ studios, and narrow streets with clotheslines full of brightly colored hanging laundry give a feel of southern Italy in days of old.
The Joutes de Sète
Every year Sète hosts the 'Joutes de Sète,' a water jousting tournament that seats its participants in boats rather than on horseback. The competition began in July of 1666 and still takes place each year, during the Fête de Saint Louis, in August. The festival includes four days of concerts, street music, exhibitions, and the legendary water jousting on the Canal Royal.
The jousters dress in white and each round is between two boats - the red team and the blue team. The goal is to use the long jousting spear to throw your opponents into the water. The jousting competitions are very popular with locals and tourists, alike, and during the tournament the town has a very festive feel. It is an excellent time to visit Sète!
The “Windy Home”
After leaving Sète, we continued our journey to our Airbnb in Saze, a little village near Avignon. Since we hadn’t had time to sit for a meal while in Sète, we were all becoming a bit hangry. We stopped along the autoroute and enjoyed a burger and a shake at Steak and Shake (not the brand you’re thinking of from the U.S.). The food was excellent and did much to improve our moods.
It was getting dark as we arrived in Saze and the directions were a little confusing. After getting a bit lost, we finally found our charming Airbnb and settled in for the night. The home was located in the country amidst acres and acres of vineyards. We affectionately called this “The Windy Home” because the wind was quite persistent during our entire stay. We’ve heard that the mistral winds in this region have a positive effect on the wine crop. Mistral winds are strong, cold, and dry winds that blow from the north toward the Mediterranean Sea. They can blow for several days at a time reaching speeds of 74km per hour. This “jet effect” flowing through the Rhône valley increases the intensity of the aroma and the flavor of the grapes.
This stay offered us three bedrooms, a well-equipped kitchen, a large family room, and even a washer and dryer. The bathroom was so clean and cozy, Sophie even settled in for a bath while watching a movie on her laptop. Our hosts provided us with several fun games. We enjoyed a game of French Headbanz and several lively rounds of checkers during our stay.
One of the things we loved most about this stay was its convenient location. We had easy access to the ancient Roman city of Nîmes and Pont du Gard (both of which we’ll be writing about in the weeks to come). It’s also close to the city of Avignon, which we drove past when leaving the Airbnb. We hadn’t originally planned to visit this historic city but, after seeing its walled exterior, we made sure to make time for it a few weeks later.
View toward the Mediterranean Sea from the canal.
While our quick visit to Sète was completely unplanned, it gave us enough of a preview that we spent a lot of time learning about all the things that make this town special. We would like to stay nearby and revisit in the future and definitely take the time to enjoy the fresh seafood that is so plentiful here. We would also like to return when the weather is a bit warmer so we can experience the beaches and summer festivals.
