Occitanie Region

“Give me books, French wine, fruit, fine weather and a little music played out of doors by somebody I do not know.”

— John Keats

View from Carcassonne into the countryside.

After an amazing time spent in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Region, we headed south to the Occitanie Region to visit Carcassonne. The drive from Saint-Laurent-du-Pont to our Airbnb in Saint-Frichoux was about 4.5 hours. We watched the mountains and steep cliffs slowly disappear in our rearview mirror as we made our way to our next adventure in the south of France.

Our Airbnb

As of 2016, two former regions - the Midi-Pyrenees and the Languedoc Roussillon - were combined to form the Occitanie Region. The town of Saint-Frichoux is positioned in the Aude department of this region, about halfway between Toulouse and the Mediterranean Sea. As we got closer to our Airbnb in the town of Saint-Frichoux, we started to pass some of the many vineyards that produce the wines of southern France.

Click on photo to enlarge and see descriptions.

During our drive, we received a message from our host asking us to call the manager to make arrangements to meet her for our arrival. We made the call and quickly realized that she spoke absolutely no English. Kevin passed the phone back to Ellie in the hopes that she would be able to understand her a little better, but we had no such luck. We ended up having to trade messages with her through the Airbnb app so that we could get some help with translation to communicate better.

When we arrived at our Airbnb, the manager met us and gave us a thorough tour. Despite the language barrier, we learned that this home was built in 1903 and served as a former wine maker’s residence, which is why we still affectionately refer to this Airbnb as the “Wine Maker’s Home” whenever we speak of our time there.

Positioned above a large garage/workshop, was a home with 3 large bedrooms, a nicely renovated bathroom, and a combined kitchen, dining, and living area. There was a lovely, private outdoor space with a deck, allowing for us to sit and gaze at the night sky. We loved the huge olive tree located in the front courtyard of the home that we could see through the living area window. Our first day in the house was spent catching up on school, gathering groceries to make homemade meals, and making use of the laundry room.

Located just across the small lane from our stay was the Domaine Pujol winery. Our host left a bottle of their Les Ailes Imaginaires (a red Grenache blend) as a gift for us to try and we really enjoyed it! Domaine Pujol production dates back to 1880 with 5 hectares of vineyards. Today, the label is 5 generations old and going strong!

Staying in an old wine maker’s home, directly across from a winery, and being surrounded by so many vineyards made us want to learn a bit more about the history of this area. While the French government now calls this the Occitanie region, the area where we stayed is in the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region. It dates back to the 5th century when Greeks introduced winemaking into the area.

Its location, between the Pyrenees Mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, creates a perfect climate with almost constant sunshine but with cooling winds, even on hot summer days. Growing organic grapes is a struggle in other parts of the world, but this drying wind helps to keep the grapes naturally healthy. In addition, the soil is incredibly rich. Wide variations of soil components, including shale, limestone, volcanic soil, sandstone, and calcareous clay, mean that the soil can change drastically in just 30 feet, creating an extensive variety of flavors. Lastly, plant life and landscape varies greatly throughout the region from high mountain forests to wild herb and pine groves that all add their own flavors to the grapes grown here. It is the perfect environment for growing the grapes that make up the wines of the largest wine producing region in the world!

In addition to our host providing us with a bottle of wine and a pleasant stay, the very friendly manager showed up as we were checking out and surprised us with some newly learned English. We were so impressed that she wanted so badly to connect with us, that she taught herself to ask “You have a nice stay?” We were all smiles as we responded that we had a wonderful stay! This was just another example of the overwhelming amount of kindness and thoughtfulness that we experienced from locals all throughout France!

History of Carcassonne

Though our stay at the Wine Maker’s Home turned out to be a pleasant bonus, our primary purpose for picking the location was its proximity to the fortified ancient city of Carcassonne. It is the oldest, and largest, fortified city in Europe! The settlement of this area dates back to the Neolithic time period (the end of the Stone Age), but it was the Romans who first fortified the hilltop around 100 BC. It has withstood attacks from Clovis King of the Franks, Charlemagne, and Edward the Black Prince during the 100 years war. It is so well preserved that it has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Carcassonne began as Carcaso, a Roman town conveniently located along ancient trade routes. The Roman walls were expanded by the Visigoths (feudal lords and kings) and again by the kings of France in the Middle Ages. The city comprises two rows of high walls, towers, and gates surrounding the castle (Château Comtal), the Gothic church (Saint Nazaire Basilica), and the medieval town. In its present form, Carcassonne is an outstanding example of a medieval fortified town with its massive defenses encircling the castle and the surrounding buildings, streets, and church. In all, there are 3 kilometers that make up the double city walls, which include 52 towers and 4 city gates (each of which have historical significance).

The Porte Narbonnaise is the most famous of the four gates. It sits on the east side of the city and features two large towers connected by a Knight’s Hall. There are two portcullis openings meant for defenders to shoot crossbows or drop heavy stones onto invaders. (Almost all visitors enter through this gate.)

Port Saint-Nazaire is located on the south side of the basilica. It has a rectangular tower and a defensive system that includes four viewpoints, a machicolation (through which heavy stones could be dropped on attackers), and fortified doors.

Porte d’Aude stands on the west side of town and is the nearest to Château Comtal. It is named after the Aude River that flows underneath the city. This entrance once featured some false passageways, intended to confuse and trap any invaders.

Lastly, Porte de Rodez is located on the northern side and is named after the city of Rodez, which had been an important part of the historic trade route. It was once the gate that brought in goods and provisions for the city.

The Legend Behind the Name

There is a large bust statue of Dame Carcas (a modern copy of the ancient one that is found in the city’s museum) carved into the stone at the Narbonnaise gate. In a story that is more myth and legend than historical fact, it is said that she lent her name to this ancient city.

Back in the 8th century, Charlemagne and his army laid siege to the city. The siege lasted at least 5 years and the city was short on knights. The Saracen lord was killed defending it. Under the advice of Lady Carcas, his widow, they began placing fake soldiers in the watchtowers to make the invaders believe they were still strong. The invasion continued for another 5 years and food was running low. It became clear that the residents would starve if it lasted much longer.

Lady Carcas asked for an inventory and was told that only one pig and a stack of wheat remained. She force-fed the grain to the pig and then threw the fattened animal over the wall, much to the chagrin of the townspeople who saw their last food disappear. When Charlemagne saw the well-fed pig literally explode at his feet, he believed the city to be so flush with provisions that they would mock him and his army. They decided to break camp and retreat.

As Lady Carcas watched the enemy leave, she abruptly changed her mind and rang the bells, surrendering and converting her city to Catholicism. Someone loudly declared “Carcas sonne” (literally “Carcas rings”) which is said to have been the reason for the name. In reality, Charlemagne was still a child and it was his father Pepin the Short who took back the city in 752.

First Impressions

We were all very excited to visit this medieval castle! Rachel was so inspired that she decided to cosplay as a mythical elf that might have been ripped from the pages of one of her sketchbooks. Before we left our Airbnb, she carefully selected her outfit, electing to wear her corset, dream catcher necklace, and her elf ears that she had packed just in case a situation like this arose!

After spending the morning getting some work done, we left our Airbnb around 1:30pm to spend the afternoon at Carcassonne. It was an easy 30 minute drive through the beautiful countryside of farms and vineyards. We could see the impressive ancient city from miles away as we drove toward it! It was stunning to see the ancient structure getting larger and larger as we approached. We made our way to the parking lot and were pleased to see that many visitors were actually leaving after completing their morning and early afternoon at the site. We passed the entrance to the cemetery and a conveniently located public restroom on our way to the main gate - the Narbonnaise Gate - of the walled city.

As we approached the Narbonnaise Gate, we stopped to get some pictures of the immensity of this fortified city. We also took the opportunity to get some pictures of Rachel in her elf garb. It was about this time that we started to notice several small visitors who couldn’t keep their eyes off of her. Some pulled at the sleeves of their parents, whispering in their ears as they pointed at Rachel while she passed. They seemed delighted by her elf ears! (Honestly, we’re not sure if the young children or Rachel were more excited by the sightings.)

Between the Walls

We made our way through the Narbonnaise Gate which we later learned is the boarding location for the Citadel’s Little Train. The train is available, at a rate of 4-8 euros (depending on age), to take passengers on a tour (available in multiple languages) of the entire defensive system of Carcassonne. This tour, which runs April-October, is recommended for ages 10 and up. In addition to the train, there is a horse drawn carriage that visitors can pay for which takes them along the route between the two walls. (It is also a seasonal option.) Both the train and carriage rides had just closed for the season when we visited.

We were thrilled that we could walk the entire way around, between the two walls. This is honestly where we spent the majority of our day (we walked around 1.5 times). The Littles loved peering through the small holes through which archers would have launched their arrows in defense of the city. When walking the ramparts you will encounter lots of stairs and uneven ground. All are fenced (though not on all sides). Do keep an eye on younger kids and note that some areas are quite steep and not accessible with a stroller. Your kids, like ours, will likely want time to freely run through the area between the walls and climb onto some of the old watch towers and ramparts. They’ll want to peer through the openings and imagine themselves firing arrows at approaching attackers.

City Center

Once you pass through both sets of walls, you’ll find yourself in the ancient city. The town center is home to about 100 people that make this their full-time residence. They come and go on foot and by car through any of the 4 gates that lead into the city. We found the medieval town charming with its cobblestone streets and narrow alleys that wind through the city past homes, restaurants, galleries, and shops.

Rachel’s love for medieval weapons and clothing had her marveling over some of the real swords, helmets, and costumes that were on display. She would have loved to buy one of the swords but understood when we explained to her that there was no way we would be able to get on a plane back home with one!

We walked through a candy store looking through all of the unique and retro items on offer. Kevin even treated us all to a selection of sweet treats. Our only regret is that we didn’t take the time to sit and have a meal. We would have loved to try a traditional French Cassoulet that was featured in many of the restaurants. - Cassoulet is a hearty stew of sausage, confit (a meat, usually duck, cooked slowly in its own fat), and white beans. The entire stew is typically cooked slowly over low heat to meld all the rich flavors together. It is a classic example of French country cuisine. - However, Kevin had twisted his knee while wandering through some of the uneven areas and he was ready to get back to our Airbnb to rest for a bit. (He ended up having surgery a couple of months after returning home. Yikes!) Next time, we’ll definitely have to try some Cassoulet!

Saint Nazaire Basilica

Considered the "Jewel of the City,'' Saint Nazaire Basilica demonstrates both Romanesque and Gothic architecture. Its construction began in 925 and it was consecrated by Pope Urban II in 1096. The church was originally a cathedral (the seat of a bishop) until 1803. In 1898, the Pope granted it the status of a basilica (this title comes as a recognition of the church as an important relic or place of pilgrimage and allows it to fly the Vatican flag).

What started in the 10th century as a Romanesque church was completed in the 12th century with a six bay nave. It was then enlarged in the 13th century with many Gothic elements added, along with the stained glass windows depicting scenes from the life of Christ and the apostles. The blending of both Romanesque and Gothic styles make this church unique.

The current exterior was restored by architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc around 1840. On the outside facade, you’ll find gargoyles perched high on the structure. Inside, there are 22 figures of Mary, Christ, the Apostles, saints, and angels carved into the columns. You’ll also find a beautiful painted statue of Mary and the baby Jesus. The original 13th century stained glass windows have remained intact. The church still opens for mass every Sunday at 11am and can be toured daily, but you’ll need to check the schedule each month for the open hours.

Château Comtal de Carcassonne

Château Comtal (Count’s Castle) is a medieval castle that lies within the walls of the city of Carcassonne. It was built upon the steepest part of the hill to give it extra protection from attackers. It is the most significant monument within the city. The castle is four-sided and it boasts nine towers. It was built in the 12th century by the Viscounts of Carcassonne (the Trencavels), but has been modified many times throughout the centuries. To enter the castle, you will need to walk over the bridge and pay an entrance fee. You can choose a one hour guided tour, or a self-guided visit (about 9,50 euros for an adult and free for those under 18). An audio tour is available upon request. We decided not to pay to tour Château Comtal and, instead, just enjoyed looking at the exterior. We were simply enjoying our self-guided tour of the rest of the fortress so much and wanted to save enough time before sunset to visit the adjacent cemetery before ending our day.

Unique Cemetery at Carcassonne

Located just outside the Narbonnaise Gate, lies the 18th century Cimetière de la Cité. Now, my family often pokes fun at my fascination with cemeteries (the older the better), but we ALL thoroughly enjoyed our leisurely walk through this one. It stands on a slight hill and has a gorgeous view of the walls of Carcassonne. There are a number of mausoleums and memorials. Raised marble graves are decorated with pictures of the departed, along with other adornments like crosses, plaques, and even several bouquets of flowers, mostly chrysanthemums, indicating a recent visit by a loved one. Apparently, chrysanthemums are the traditional flowers for All Saint’s Day (November 1st). We visited the site on November 4th so this made complete sense! We saw several cemeteries as we toured France and all were quite different from what we’re used to in the U.S. This one was particularly beautiful.

Panorama of Cimetière de la Cité with the walls of Carcassonne in the background.

Our trip to Carcassonne was so fun and educational. Our family was completely content wandering between the walls and meandering through the old city within. The Littles loved some of the medieval costumes in the shops and we loved how much fun our girls had exploring and imagining themselves fending off an enemy attack. It felt like stepping back in time and we completely immersed ourselves in the experience. This stop happened as we were ending our 2nd full month of travels through France and the architecture and passion for preserving history continued to impress us. We would definitely recommend you add a day at Carcassonne to your France itinerary!

Carcassonne, France