Pont du Gard, France
Occitanie Region
“Architecture should speak of its time and place, but yearn for timelessness.”
Pont du Gard and the surrounding landscape
Another of our “bucket list” items for our time in France was to visit Pont du Gard. We had seen photos of it but didn’t really know much about its history and significance. Built by the Romans in the 1st century AD to supply water to the city of Nîmes, it is a marvel of ancient architecture and engineering. We learned so much and enjoyed viewing it from so many different angles as the setting sun changed the way the color bounced off of it. Our only regret was not packing a picnic and spending more time just sitting and enjoying the view!
History
The site where Pont du Gard is built actually has an even more ancient history. Salpêtrière Grotto, which is located on the banks of the river opposite the visitor’s center, gives visitors a hint at the prehistoric history of the site. We saw the fenced off area and the sign but we had no idea what we were looking at during our visit. It marks a portion of a cave that dates back 19,000 years. One of the first bones with animal engravings discovered in France was found here! (The actual bone can be seen at the Nîmes Museum of Natural History.)
Click on photo to enlarge and see descriptions.
Pont du Gard was built around 50 AD, during the reigns of Claudius and Nero, to supply water to the city of Nîmes (known as “Nemasus” during Roman times). During its prime, the aqueduct gravity fed 40,000 cubic meters of freshwater, daily, from the springs in Uzès to Nîmes, covering a distance of 50 kilometers!
The aqueduct supplied water for about 500 years until the dirt and calcification clogged the supply to the point that it was no longer functional. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Pont du Gard was used mainly as a toll bridge. Around the 12th century, the first twelve arches of the third tier were removed and used to build churches and other buildings.
Between 1743 and 1747, a road bridge next to the aqueduct bridge was constructed. This is the way that tourists (who don’t take the guided tour) cross from one side of the river to the other. While the site of Pont du Gard has been taken for granted at many points during history, the last 40 years have brought a resurgent desire to preserve the monument. In 1985, it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In 2000, the site was opened to the public and the museum opened in 2001.
First Impressions
Pont du Gard has two different parking lots, one on each side of the river. We suggest parking on the north side (signs are labeled “rive gauche”). This lot will put you on the side with the museum. You will have to pull a ticket to park but parking is free with paid admission. (You’ll use your admission ticket when you exit the lot so be sure to hold on to it.)
The parking lot is quite big but we visited on a beautiful early November day and had the place almost entirely to ourselves so the walk to the visitor’s center was quick. We noticed a few camping vans in the parking lot and loved that it was accessible to families traveling in larger vehicles.
If you’ll be in Nîmes for more than a day, you might want to consider the Nîmes City Pass which provides access to Pont du Gard, and several other sites in Nîmes, including the Roman Arena (amphitheater), Maison Carrée, Musée de la Romanité, and several other museums, tours, and attractions.
The Museum
We arrived at around 1:30 in the afternoon, purchased our tickets, and then went in to tour the museum. The Pont cannot be seen from the parking lot or even from the museum so the anticipation just built for us as we were eager to see it. Admission tickets include the museum, the Ludo area (an interactive space for children 5-12), and a movie. This silent movie runs at 15 minute intervals and uses computer generated images to show the history of Pont du Gard and provide some interesting facts. Though there was some French text, it was still easy for us to understand. We started there and then began exploring the museum.
We are so glad that we took the opportunity to tour the museum first! We toured several exhibits that showed the evolution of water management. We learned why the aqueduct was needed, how it was built, and the benefits the entire region reaped as a result. We were able to see the processes and tools that were used to build the structure. It was truly remarkable what these early minds conceived and created. Much of the same technology drives our world even today. Here are some things we learned:
While it is the most major element, Pont du Gard is actually only part of the 50km aqueduct that carries water through the French countryside into the city of Nîmes.
Pont du Gard was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985 due to its exceptional preservation, historical importance, and architectural ingenuity.
The aqueduct took about 15 years to build in the first century AD, under the reigns of Claudius and Nero.
It is estimated that the aqueduct supplied the city with around 40,000 cubic meters (8,800,000 gal) of water a day and it took nearly 27 hours to flow from the source to the city.
The three tiered structure is as tall as the Statue of Liberty!
Pont du Gard is long enough to accommodate 3 commercial airplanes, end to end, on top of it.
The construction methods used required hundreds of skilled craftsmen like iron workers, stone masons, architects, and mathematicians working together.
The aqueduct was functional for about 300 years but was mostly used for agriculture vs drinking water at the end due to muddier waters and the build up of limestone deposits.
Pont du Gard Experience
After touring the museum, we returned to the car for a quick snack before walking back in and hiking to the Pont (make sure you have your tickets handy as you will likely be asked for them as you make your way back, especially if you journey back to your car for a bit). It’s a bit of a trek to walk from the museum area to the site of Pont du Gard, but it is all paved and very manageable. Along the pathway, we passed 3 large olive trees that are each over 1,000 years old! They were in incredible condition and it was amazing to imagine how many people have come in contact with these living plants in the last millennium!
It was close to 5pm by the time we got back to the Pont. The first glimpse was absolutely breathtaking! We hiked several different pathways and experienced different vantage points of the structure. We went to the very top of one end before crossing to the other side. Seeing the structure from up close and being able to touch the stones was surreal.
If you’re interested in a guided tour, you’ll be able to access the top level of the aqueduct. You’ll go up a spiral staircase and walk above the pipe section (that has been fitted with a wooden walking path). A tour will also give you the chance to go inside the structure where you’ll be able to see the calcification on the walls left behind from years of carrying water. Eventually, this added debris reduced the water flow and the aqueduct was retired. Tours are available every day during school vacations and on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays the rest of the year. (Please note that these tours are only available in French.) We chose not to take a guided tour and didn’t feel like we missed out at all.
The surrounding landscape was beautiful and peaceful. We wandered and took photos and watched the way the late afternoon light hit the structure. We enjoyed how clear and calm the water was, reflecting the Pont so beautifully. We stayed until long after sunset to view the structure lit up by spotlights. Finally, as darkness fully set in, we reluctantly made our way back across the Pont toward the exit. True to our nature, we might have been the last people to leave that day!
Places to Eat at Pont du Gard
If you’re staying for a while to really appreciate the museum and the Pont, you’re going to want to get a bite to eat. There are three options available. All are handicapped accessible but you’ll want to make sure you park on the side of the river where you plan to dine if accessibility is a consideration. You are also permitted to bring your own food if you’d like to enjoy a picnic on the banks of the river while enjoying the view.
On the left bank of the Gardon River (the side with the museum), you’ll find the Bistro Pont du Gard. This is a great place to choose for a freshly made sandwich. You could also order a cheese board, pastries, waffles, or homemade ice cream! The bistro is open year round from 9am to 6pm.
On the right bank, there are two options. Les Petites Terrasses and Restaurant Terrasses. Les Petites Terrasses is open only during the summer months when their daily hours are 10am to 6pm. Here, you can order a salad, sandwich, wrap, hot dish, or even homemade ice cream. The terrace faces the monument for a great view!
If a full service meal is what you’re looking for, you’ll want to try Restaurant Les Terrasses. Here, you can indulge in refined cuisine made exclusively with local produce. Add a cocktail or a glass of wine from their full menu of wines and spirits and top it off with a delicious dessert. This dinner with a gorgeous view of Pont du Gard would be a spectacular choice for an impressive date night. The restaurant is open daily for lunch (except during the winter) and for evening meals, depending on the season.
Special Events at Pont du Gard
There are several special events that take place at Pont du Gard throughout the year. If you’re going to be in the area during one of them, you’ll definitely want to add them to your list. Here are a few of the most noteworthy:
Sound and Light Show – Each evening in July and August, visitors are treated to a sound and light show that projects beautiful color images onto the Pont. This is similar to some other light shows that are done in cities throughout France.
Candlelight Concert Series – From the end of May to the beginning of September, about 30 concerts will be held at the foot of Pont du Gard. We can only imagine the atmosphere created with candlelight, music, and the majestic Pont with its special lighting
New Sound & Light Show with Drones – On certain evenings this summer, Pont du Gard is hosting a brand new experience! It will feature AI drone avatars dancing with light above the Pont. The show will use 50 luminous drones that will help tell a story in 3 dimensions. For more information about this special event and when you can view it, click here.
Takeaway
We highly recommend a visit to this historical site. Here are our suggestions to make your trip the best that it can be:
Arrive early in the day so that you have several hours to spend touring both the museum and the Pont.
Do NOT miss the museum! It is full of wonderful information that makes the Pont du Gard experience more meaningful.
If you have young children, be sure to visit the Ludo area where they can have some hands-on learning experience.
Consider packing a picnic and spending some time relaxing and enjoying the view of the Gardon River and Pont du Gard.
Stop to admire the 1,000 year old olive trees, especially their intricate trunks.
Extend your visit into the evening to enjoy the sunset. During the summer months, be sure to check out the sound and light show.
Bring a towel if you’re visiting during the summer. The water was too cold during our visit but, during warmer months, families often wade into the water to cool off and have some extra fun.
For adventure and sports enthusiasts, there is a canoe trip that ends under the Pont that could be really fun!
Prior to visiting Pont du Gard, we had seen images of the famous aqueduct but knew very little about it. We really underestimated how much we would enjoy learning the history of the planning and building of this ancient structure. It is definitely something that needs to be seen in person to truly appreciate its magnitude.
Located in the Occitanie Region, Pont du Gard is just one of so many wonderful things to see and experience. In a few weeks, we’ll be posting an overview of the entire region, providing more information on how to make the most of your time when visiting. You will definitely want to come back and read all of our recommendations! Have you visited Pont du Gard? Did we capture your favorite part? Let us know in the comments below.
Panorama of Pont du Gard
