Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Region

“I cannot endure to waste anything so precious as autumnal sunshine by staying in the house.”

— Nathaniel Hawthorne

View from our Airbnb of autumn leaves and snow-capped mountains

Months before we arrived in France, we began to plan our itinerary. Of course everyone wanted to see iconic sights in Paris and the beaches of Normandy. Two other things upon which we could all agree were the mountains and the Mediterranean. We had spent half of September and most of October traveling the country just waiting for the beautiful colors of autumn to make their appearance. It was on our approach to Saint-Gervais-les-Bains that we realized we would get our first beautiful, rich colors of fall with the snow-capped mountains of the French Alps as their background. What a glorious sight it was!

First Impressions

Our drive to Saint-Gervais-les-Bains was absolutely beautiful! Located in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Region of southeastern France, the mountain town is nestled in the mountain range that includes Mont Blanc (the highest peak in Western Europe). Driving in from Lyon, we enjoyed the view of the countryside as the flatter lands became hilly and then the mountains revealed themselves. Fall is my favorite season and I was so excited to experience the colors while we traveled through France. It was on our approach to Saint-Gervais-les-Bains that autumn, in all its colorful glory, first revealed itself. I became almost giddy with excitement as each turn in the road revealed more of the spectacular mountain view and the gorgeous reds, oranges, and yellows of the trees.

We arrived at our Airbnb at around 4pm and were met by one of the property managers of our host. We learned that he was a Canadian who had relocated to France when he and his French wife married during the Covid pandemic. While he had become almost fluent in French, he was excited to be able to speak English with us as most of the individuals he meets with are locals. We had a great conversation with him and even captured a selfie on one of the balconies with him before he left.

Click on photo to enlarge and see descriptions.

The place, itself, was absolutely beautiful! The apartment had been newly renovated and featured two separate balconies and lots of large windows. The main living area included an open floor plan with a cozy seating area, large dining table, very functional kitchen, and a gas fireplace. Down the long hallway from the foyer, there were two bedrooms with two twin beds each, a split bathroom (shower and large sink in one, toilet and small hand basin in the other), and finally, the primary bedroom with a king-size bed, a full bath, and its own balcony.

From our balconies, we had gorgeous autumn views of the trees, mixed with the dark green pines and the mountains on the horizon. We could see much of the town center from our perch, including the church of Saint-Gervais, a Baroque masterpiece. We enjoyed hearing the bells from the church announcing each new hour. Before we’d even settled in, we were already sorry that we only had four days to enjoy this location.

History

Back in 1806 this small town rarely saw tourists. Only shepherds would come to bring their herds to graze on the grass that was always green due to a hot spring. The town notary, Joseph-Marie Gontard, secretly had this water analyzed and discovered that the high mineral content would make it capable of treating various ailments. From that point on, the springs became a popular holiday destination, bringing visitors who would come for the thermal spa - 'Les Thermes' - in the lower village of Le Faye.

Saint-Gervais-les-Bains has also seen tragedy. Back in 1892, a natural disaster occurred when hundreds of people in the path of a mudslide were killed as the rocks, mud, and ice swept down the mountain. It was later discovered that over 200,000 cubic meters of water had accumulated over millions of years in the Tête-Rousse glacier and exploded under the pressure, causing the slide. Over the years, the town has continued to monitor the glacier, pumping water out of it when it becomes a concern and installing an alert system and an evacuation plan in case all other efforts fail. These efforts have considerably reduced the possible threat of injury and property damage.

Today, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains is a gorgeous Alpine resort village that is stunning year-round but really comes alive during the ski season. In 1936, the Saint-Gervais ski area was created thanks to the construction of the town’s first cable car. At this point, the town was more than just a spa resort, it was a center for both relaxation and winter sports fun. While nearby Chamonix is a well-known destination for visitors from around the world, Saint-Gervais tends to be a favorite getaway for the French.

Food

We really hit it off with our Airbnb contact when he checked us into the apartment. A few days later, we contacted him to extend our stay since we were reluctant to leave this beautiful town. He showed up later that day with a raclette grill, 4 different types of meat, raclette cheese, a jar of pickles, and a fresh baguette from his own neighborhood. He provided everything we needed to have an authentic raclette meal. He ended up staying for over an hour to show us how to use the grill. We enjoyed chatting with him about our travels along with hearing how he met his wife in Columbia while they were both volunteering there. It was a real treat getting to know him better and sharing stories with a fellow lover of travel.

Later that evening, we prepared our raclette meal together. We enjoyed the experience just as much as the food. We’d heard of raclette but hadn’t really known what it was until we experienced it for ourselves. We heated the meat while the cheese melted in individual compartments and then poured the warm, gooey cheese over the meat and some fried potatoes that we had also prepared. All 5 of us enjoyed the flavors and had so much fun with the process. It was a truly authentic French culinary experience that became one of our favorite meals during our 3 months in the country.

If you’d prefer to eat out while visiting Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, there are some wonderful restaurants in the small town as well. We’ve provided links to some of the most noteworthy. (Please be aware that some of these websites are in French and you might need to utilize Google Translate.) Right in the heart of downtown, you’ll find Le Serac which is the town’s top restaurant and holds a coveted Michelin star. Other recommended restaurants include L’Edelweiss, (which offers local French cuisine), Restaurant le Galeta (for Italian cuisine), and Ronde de Carotte (also recommended by the Michelin guide).

We ordered a meal from Restaurant Pizzeria L’Eterle and walked down to pick it up so that we could all enjoy it from the comfort of our Airbnb. The adults ordered a couple of pasta dishes to split, including a delicious truffle pasta. The girls opted for burgers, though Ellie’s ordering over the phone (in French) resulted in an error where we only ended up with one burger. (Honestly, the one burger was so big that it was plenty for both of the Littles and turned out to be a happy accident.) The food was delicious and there were so many other wonderful items on their menu. We would love to have tried more!

The town’s central square also has a collection of great cafes, along with places to find a sweet treat. If you would rather cook, the town offers two small grocery stores, along with some specialty markets where you can find everything you need to make a meal, including a great selection of wine. There is even a weekly fresh food market on Thursday mornings.

What to Do

Sport enthusiasts love this area of the country where skiing, mountain biking, hiking, and paragliding are all very popular activities. While Saint-Gervais certainly sees an influx of skiers throughout the season, the small town is less popular and congested than some of the other resort towns in the area, making it a favorite for locals and allowing it to maintain its small town charm year round. We found, however, that there is much to appreciate about this town even when skiing is not on your agenda. Here are some ways to spend your time in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains:

Explore the quaint town center – The beautiful Alpine village of Saint-Gervais is quaint and walkable with a nice selection of shops and restaurants. Near the beautiful Baroque church is a small war memorial honoring town residents from both world wars. You can enjoy beautiful mountain views while shopping at the local fresh market. You’ll also find specialty shops, cafes, and a bakery with wonderful desserts.

Bettex/Mont D’Arbois Cable Car – The cable cars give visitors an incredible panoramic view of nearby Mont Blanc. In addition, from the summit, visitors will have access to the ski slopes (in season), hiking, snowshoeing, mountain bike trails, and the paragliding take-off point. The cable car only operates seasonally, so check before planning your visit.

Les Thermes Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc – One of the things Saint-Gervais-les-Bains is most known for is its healing mineral hot springs. Pamper yourself with a spa experience at Les Bains du Mont Blanc Thermal Spa. The spa provides a mix of indoor and outdoor spaces, all dedicated to the healing properties of Saint-Gervais’ thermal water. Steam baths, saunas, immersive caves, and thermal water pools all welcome guests for a relaxing sensory experience.

Tramway du Mont Blanc – Experience the highest cogwheel train in France! In summer the trains climb all the way to the Nid d'Aigle (2,380m), an epic journey of around 1hr 15min. There are two main departure points, Le Fayet and Saint-Gervais, but the train makes 6 stops en route, enabling walkers to disembark and follow various itineraries. The Tramway is open in the summer and fall (mid June - late October) and opens for ski season from mid-December through April. For more information, visit their website.

Hiking – There are plenty of opportunities for hiking in and around Saint-Gervais. Each route is designated by level of difficulty ranging from green (very easy), to blue (easy), all the way to red (listed on their site as “medium” but we feel that they are for advanced hikers only). The green trails are great for beginners or families with young children and feature some wonderful scenery. The blue trails are a little longer and a little more challenging but still good for families. The red trails are meant for advanced hikers and have some routes that are quite long, taking hikers 7 to 8 hours to complete and often requiring special equipment. Be sure to research your path before setting off! For more information on the trails, levels of difficulty, and suggested equipment, click this link.

Day Trips from Saint-Gervais

While its location in the French Alps makes it difficult to reach quickly from some locations in France (like Paris & Marseille), Saint-Gervais-les-Bains can be a wonderful option for a home base. It is conveniently situated near the border of Switzerland and its location in the Alps gives easy access to other neighboring Alpine towns. We’ve put together a list of great destinations that can be easily reached and enjoyed on a day trip from Saint-Gervais.

Megève – The ski resort town of Megève, France is just a 15 minute drive from Saint-Gervais-les-Bains. The walkable village center is made up of narrow cobblestone streets with cozy Alpine architecture and gorgeous wooden chalets. You’ll also find a 3 star Michelin restaurant for fine dining. The village has a cozy, inviting atmosphere with small town charm. There are even horse-drawn carriages that will take you for a ride around the village!

Chamonix – Located a 40 minute drive from Saint-Gervais is the larger ski resort town of Chamonix. We spent a full day here and there were still so many things we didn’t have time to experience. Next week’s blog post will be dedicated to Chamonix. We will share our experiences and a list of lots of other great things the town has to offer that we have put on our list for next time

Annecy – Located 90 minutes from Saint-Gervais is the beautiful town of Annecy. We had hoped to spend a day there but rain dampened our plans. Instead, we stopped briefly to explore, after leaving Saint-Gervais. We put on our raincoats and braved the light rain to take a walk through the park. Even on a rainy day, it was beautiful, especially with the crystal clear blue waters and the vibrant fall colors. We decided that Annecy is definitely worth a return trip!

Geneva, Switzerland – Geneva is the 5th most expensive city in the world! As a result, it is financially difficult for many to vacation there, especially if you have a larger travel party. The good news is that it is only a 90 minute drive from Saint-Gervais so it is easily accessible for a day trip, allowing you to cut down on the cost of accommodations. Located on the shores of Lake Geneva, this French speaking town traces its roots to 58 BC when it became a Roman settlement. From the old town to the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, to the Jet d’Eau, and the Palais des Nations, there is much to see and experience for one day in Geneva.

Takeaway

When I think about my favorite places in France, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains is one of the first places that comes to mind. I was truly in my happy place in our beautiful Airbnb apartment with a view of the fall foliage and the snow-capped mountains. We walked into the town center to get food and supplies several times and on each trip we enjoyed the fresh air and the feel of the gorgeous Alpine village. We even spent a little time looking at the available options outside of the local real estate office as we passed because we could see ourselves making this place home. While we did take a day trip to Chamonix for some great adventures, we also spent a good deal of time just relaxing on the couch and enjoying the fireplace and the views.

After spending several weeks in the western part of France which was so beautiful, we scoffed a bit when our Airbnb contact said to us on arrival that the eastern side was better. Even with the stunning views that we had as we approached, it was impossible for us to imagine. As we spent more and more time in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, however, we quickly found ourselves thinking back to that conversation with him in the elevator and starting to understand why he said what he did… We highly recommend that you add this quaint Alpine town to your list of places to visit!

Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, France