Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Region

After leaving Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, we made our way west toward our next Airbnb stay in Saint-Laurent-du-Pont. Despite the gray and drizzly weather of our travel day, we decided to stop along the way to see the beautiful town of Annecy, which we had heard so many people rave about. We parked in a nearby lot and made our way over the Pont des Amours (Lovers’ Bridge) toward the park with its stunning views of Lake Annecy. While the dreary weather didn’t give us quite the experience we’d hoped for, we still enjoyed our brief stop in this Alpine town. We spent some time looking out over the Lake’s crystal clear turquoise waters toward the mountains and all of the colorful fall trees and decided that we would have to return! We hope to make it back soon to enjoy Annecy in better weather when we can fully explore the town and have a picnic in the park.

Getting to Annecy

Annecy is located in the French Alps about 40km south of Geneva, Switzerland at the northwest tip of Lake Annecy. The old town is nestled between the last slopes of Mont Semnoz to the south and Mont Veyrier to the northeast. It is one of the few cities in France that is situated between a gorgeous lake and the snow-capped mountains, welcoming visitors with year-round picturesque views. This stunningly beautiful town is one of the most popular resort towns in the region.

If you’re visiting one of the nearby locations, Annecy is a wonderful day trip option. You can reach it, by car, from Lyon in less than 2 hours, from Grenoble or Chamonix in about 1 hour and 15 minutes, or from Geneva in about 50 minutes. If you’re staying in Paris, a train ride (through Lyon) can get you to Annecy in a little over 3.5 hours so you’d likely want to arrange to spend at least one night in Annecy, the “Venice of the Alps,” before journeying back to Paris.

Click on photo to enlarge and see descriptions.

Notable History of Annecy

Archaeologists can trace human occupation near Lake Annecy back to the Neolithic period (at least 400 BC). Traces of several villages with stilt houses have been found all along the shores of the lake, attesting to its important role in providing for the needs of its earliest inhabitants. It is believed these were left behind by Gallic tribes of the Allobroges, some of which may have been warriors who were active throughout central Europe during that time.

Beginning in the 1st century AD, Roman troops took over the area and colonized Annecy and the surrounding area. The small town’s strategic location on the crossroads leading to Geneva in the north, and other towns in the south and west, made it a major center. There was a great deal of instability after the fall of the Roman Empire and it was during the 8th century that the rural domain of “Anniciaca” was created. It is believed that this is where the name Annecy was derived.

In the 10th century, houses were built near the foot of Annecy Castle. In 1132, the first version of what is now called Palais de l’Île was constructed on the rocky island in the middle of the Thiou River. Near the end of that century, the House of Savoy was evicted from Geneva and took refuge in Annecy. Over the next few years, the town developed and doubled its population with textile and steel mills making it a commercial center.

During the 16th century, the Protestant Reformation reached Geneva when Protestants arrived as refugees. This caused instability in the area. The Genevans proclaimed themselves a republic and swore allegiance to the Protestant faith with John Calvin as the spiritual leader of the city. Because of this, the historic Catholic Diocese of Geneva relocated its seat to Annecy where the bishop resided. Because of this period in history, Annecy is home to a number of monuments, including St Peter’s Cathedral, Lambert House, and the bell tower of Notre-Dame de Liesse. Annecy became the seat of the Counter-Reformation. The influence of Annecy over the Catholic lands in this section of Europe gave the city the nickname “Rome of the Alps.”

During the French Revolution, the Savoy region was conquered by France. However, the Treaty of Paris in 1815 set borders back to what they were before the Revolution, returning the lands of Annecy and Savoy to the King of Sardinia. During this time, major urban projects were undertaken to pave new streets, construct bridges and buildings (including the Town Hall), and develop the lake front area, including the creation of a huge public garden.

It officially became part of France in 1860 when Savoy was annexed to France with the Treaty of Turin. At this time, the population of Annecy had grown to 10,000. Just 6 years later, a railway line was opened which helped pave the way for both an industrial revolution and a boom in tourism for Annecy. Visitors began arriving to enjoy the lake and the mountains. Annecy capitalized on this by renovating and opening the castle to visitors and developing facilities for year-round enjoyment with summer activities and winter resorts. Annecy’s rich history with influences from Gallic, Roman, Swiss, and French cultures makes it a truly unique stop on any tour of France.

What to Do

There is plenty to see and do in Annecy so it is definitely worth the trip. While we didn’t have the opportunity to truly explore due to our tight timeline and the uncooperative weather, we have compiled a list of things to do & visit for our next trip.

• Stroll through the Old Town – Walk along the cobblestone streets of the old medieval town. You’ll find brightly colored buildings and bridges, adorned with cascading flowers, spanning over the winding canals. If you’re visiting at the right time, you’ll want to experience the local markets. On Tuesdays, you’ll find an abundance of produce and a wide variety of food vendors. On Fridays and Sundays, vendors offer manufactured goods and textiles in addition to the food offerings.

• Lake Annecy – This is a popular year-round destination. Featuring turquoise waters with a backdrop of snow-capped mountains, Lake Annecy is a truly picturesque scene. It is situated about 450m above sea level and sits in the shadow of Tournette Mountain (with a peak of 2,351m) to the east and Semnoz Mountain (1,699m) to the west. It is one of France’s largest lakes, stretching 15km long. It is fed by seven main streams and an underwater spring and it spills into the Thiou River which flows through Old Town.

  In the 1950’s it was heavily polluted and surrounding wildlife was disappearing. A massive project was undertaken to clean it up and it is now known as one of Europe’s purest lakes. Birds and fish flourish in this environment and the lake’s biggest threat now is tourism and development around its shores. Today, visitors and locals enjoy activities in and around the lake. There are several free and paid beaches where families can enjoy swimming or rent a paddleboat. There are two wildlife reserves located on the shores of the lake, including Réserve Naturelle du Roc de Chère that offers gorgeous panoramic views. There is also a 42km path that circles the entire lake, making it possible for bikers to ride with constant views of the scenic lake and mountains.

• Palais de l’Île – This structure is built on a tiny rocky island that separates the Thiou River into two canals. The view from Pont Perrière of Palais de l’Île is one of the most photographed sights in all of France. Its shape makes it look like a small ship pointed toward the river. It was built in the 12th century, but history refers to it for the first time in 1325 as a prison. Decades later, it was used as a coin minting facility. It has also served as a courthouse, a home, and a barracks for soldiers. It was listed by the French State as a Historical Monument in 1900. After a series of restorations during the 20th century, it was opened to the public. Today, visitors can tour parts of the building and enjoy exhibitions at the museum inside.

• Pont des Amours – The Pont des Amours (Bridge of Love or Lovers’ Bridge) is a pretty footbridge connecting the Pâquier to the Jardins de l'Europe. From the bridge, you’ll find a beautiful view of the canal on one side and Lake Annecy and Mont Veyrier on the other. The original bridge built on this site dates to 1845. In 1859, a more permanent, cast iron bridge with three arched ribs was constructed. The bridge that exists today was built in 1907 to replace the cast iron bridge. It consists of six arched ribs with the exterior of the ribs adorned with flowers. The location is a popular site for brides and grooms to pose for photos. It is located about a 10 minute walk from the city center, making it easily accessible and a popular location for visitors and locals, alike, to cross over and enjoy a picnic lunch in the adjacent park.

On our rather wet day, we found ourselves crossing the bridge to enjoy the views of the canal, the lake, and the mountains. We wandered through the park, enjoying the relative low number of visitors on this drizzly afternoon. We took a number of pictures and found the public bathroom (be sure to pack extra tissues in your backpack or purse as you travel through France, just in case) before heading back to our car to continue our journey.

• Jardins de l’Europe – The beautiful European Gardens adjacent to the lake provide an escape from the busier part of the town. Locals and visitors, alike, enjoy walking through the park with views of both the mountains and the lake. The gardens are open daily and are a free activity for families.

• Château d’Annecy – Listed as a historical monument in 1902, Château d’Annecy served as the residence of the Counts of Geneva and the Dukes of Genevois-Nemours in the 13th and 14th centuries. Over the next 200 years a series of modifications made it into the unique castle it is today. The architecture is a combination of both Medieval defense and Renaissance abundance. It was abandoned in the 17th century and then used as a military barracks until 1947. In 1953, the city purchased the castle from the Ministry of Defense and, a few years later, opened it as a museum.

• Cathédrale Saint-Pierre d’Annecy – This former Franciscan chapel was consecrated in 1535. The architecture is a combination of Renaissance and Gothic and it boasts a massive organ built in the 1840’s by Nicolas-Antoine Lété. It weighs an impressive 10 tons! Today, Cathédrale Saint-Pierre is a Roman Catholic cathedral and is listed as a national monument. In addition to being able to attend a service there (and listen to the music from the organ), many concerts are played there, particularly during the summer months.

Our Airbnb

We enjoyed our limited time in Annecy and were already making plans to come back as we loaded ourselves into our rental car to make the remaining hour-long trip southwest to our Airbnb in Saint-Laurent-du-Pont. We arrived a little before 4pm and pulled into the drive just behind our host. What a sweet lady! She showed us around the place and explained that she had grown up in the home and that her grandparents had lived downstairs. Because of this interesting tidbit of information, whenever we talk about this home, we refer to it as the “Generational Home.” She renovated the place when one of her daughters came back from China a few years ago so she could live here with her family.

Our host explained that she was also a world traveler. She and her husband had met when they spent time in California going to school at Berkeley where she studied biochemistry! They also lived for 9 years in Venezuela (after moving there planning to spend just 1) and 2 of their 3 daughters were born there. She was a wonderful and welcoming host, sharing fliers and maps of what to do in the area. She also gave us some fresh local cheese and was eager to take a photo with us on the terrace.

The home was 3 stories that had been broken into 3 separate apartments, with each occupying a different floor. We stayed on the 2nd floor (called the 1st floor in France). Our apartment included 2 bedrooms, a full bath, a generous hallway/entryway, and a large great room that included the kitchen and parlor spaces. For this stay, the Littles shared a bedroom (which was stocked with lots of toys to keep them entertained) and Ellie used one of the couches in the parlor as her bed.

While we would not have been comfortable here for more than a few days (Ellie was not particularly comfortable on the couch/bed), it was a perfect location to give us access to the Walibi-Rhône Alpes park (which will be the subject of next week’s post). It also would have allowed us to return to Annecy for a day trip if we’d had more time. In addition to Annecy and the amusement park, this Airbnb is a perfect home-base for visiting Grenoble (22km to the south), Chambéry (25km northeast), Vizille (35km south), or the spa town of Aix-les-Bains (36km northeast).

This region of France is particularly beautiful. In addition to stunning snow-covered mountains, we were so fortunate to be here during a time when the fall colors were at their peak, giving us gorgeous views for each of our stays in the region. In just a few weeks, we’ll be doing a regional round-up post for the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Region and you’ll definitely want to read all of our must-see recommendations for the entire region. Have you visited Annecy? What was your favorite sight or activity in the beautiful town? We’d love to hear from you.