Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Region

Located a 40 minute drive from our Airbnb in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains is the larger ski resort town of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (or just Chamonix, as it is most often shortened). It is known as both a world class ski resort and a favorite destination for mountaineers. The brilliant colors of fall, backed by the beautiful snow-capped mountains presented a spectacular landscape as we arrived in the town. We spent a full day here and, still, there were so many things we didn’t have time to experience. We’re sharing the food and experiences we enjoyed while in Chamonix, along with several things we’d like to do on a return trip. 

The Town of Chamonix

Chamonix is located in the Haute-Savoie department of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Region. It is bordered by Switzerland and Italy and is best known for the incredible Aiguilles de Chamonix mountain chain that peaks at the top of Mont Blanc (4,810m).

In 1760, Swiss geologist Doctor Horace Bénédict de Saussure offered a reward to the first man who could reach the summit of Mont Blanc. Two local men, Michel Paccard and Jacques Balmat, made history in 1786 when they reached the top. Today, over two centuries later, Chamonix is known as the mountaineering capital of the world! 

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Originally located on the Duke of Savoy’s lands, Chamonix became part of France on April 4, 1860. Just a few months later, Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie arrived for a 2-day state visit. They climbed the Montenvers summit to admire the Mer de Glace. This royal visit helped to draw attention to the town which officially adopted the name Chamonix-Mont-Blanc in November of 1921. 

The beautiful resort town is home to only 9,000 year-round residents, but it welcomes sports enthusiasts from all around the world. Over 60,000 visitors arrive each winter to take part in hiking, climbing, skiing, and snowboarding. Even though winter sports are their claim to fame, Chamonix has become a popular summer destination as well. Over 100,000 travelers visit during the summer months for beautiful scenery and outdoor activities like hiking and paragliding. 

Site of the First Winter Olympic Games

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Winter Olympic Games. Chamonix hosted the event in 1924 and it had a lasting effect on tourism for the mountain town. Over 10,000 spectators arrived in the French Alps to watch 258 athletes from 16 countries compete for gold. The country was still in the midst of the Spanish flu epidemic and much work needed to be done. With only 8 months to prepare, the town rose to the challenge and built a ski jump, bobsled track, and a world-record 387,500 square foot skating rink. To transport participants to the top of the slopes, the predecessor to the current Aiguille du Midi cable car was inaugurated. In order to accommodate all the athletes in the small town, citizens invited athletes and spectators into their homes as honored guests! Just two weeks before the games were set to begin, a monster storm dumped 6 feet of snow on the valley in less than 24 hours. All available men and even the French army were brought in to clear roads and prepare the slopes and rink for the games.

Activities

• Wander the Beautiful Town Center – Chamonix is a beautiful and walkable resort town. We enjoyed exploring as we wandered down several of the streets in the town center. The views of the mountains are stunning and we marveled at the number of paragliders that jumped from the neighboring cliffside and made their way down to the valley with their brightly colored parachutes.

• Aiguille du Midi – The highest point in Chamonix, Aiguille du Midi, has been a favorite tourist destination for over 6 decades. The cable car begins its climb from the town center and travels 20 minutes up the mountain. The terraces, standing at 3,777m high, offer a 360 degree view of the French, Italian, and Swiss Alps. From this level, you can take an elevator to access the summit terrace at 3,842m high for a stunning view of Mont Blanc, the highest point in Europe at 4,810m. We were told that, on a clear day, you can even see the Matterhorn from this vantage point. We were not able to see it during our visit but that did not diminish the magnificence of the views we were able to enjoy.

We took this amazing excursion and truly enjoyed the ride up the mountain. On the way up, our entire family was located in the middle of the car. Without much to hold on to, we got a little jostled when the car bounced a bit as the wheel went over a cable support. This was more surprising than scary but we were prepared the next time. We made sure to position ourselves in the very front for the ride back down. This also gave our Littles an unobstructed view of the mountain and the town as we descended. 

The views from the top of Aiguille du Midi were breathtaking. We even braved the glass room, known as “The Void,” that is suspended over a 1,000 meter high precipice to capture a souvenir photo. This vantage point is the closest visitors can get to the summit of Mont Blanc without actually climbing it themselves. We learned that this location is the highest study site of permafrost in the world. We also wandered through a display that told the stories of some of the journeys made by the earliest mountaineers. We enjoyed learning about their challenges and seeing the equipment that had been used and how it has changed over the years. We even saw a few climbers out on the mountain and wondered at the courage it took. We highly recommend the Aiguille du Midi experience!

• Montenvers Train – The Montenvers Train debuted in 1910 and is still a fully functioning rack-and-pinion railway, operating on slopes of above 9%. Only 5 of these trains exist in France (we wrote about the highest one in last week’s post). Originally, this train was pulled by steam locomotives but the line was electrified in 1953. Today, visitors can still make their way up the mountain and we took the opportunity to make the journey ourselves.

We loved the retro looking train cars as we took the 5.2km trip from the town of Chamonix to the 1,913m high terminal. Upon arriving at the Montenvers upper station, visitors can opt for a 20-minute walk or a short gondola ride down into an ice cave carved out of the Mer de Glace. Just make sure that whatever you decide to do you also pay attention to the time, especially if you make this journey in the later part of the day. You don’t want to miss the last train back down the mountain to town! (We almost did!)

• The Mer de Glace –  Mer de Glace (literally “sea of ice”) is a 7km long and 200 meter deep glacier. It is the longest glacier in France. Until the 19th century, the glacier, visible from Chamonix, was even longer. Today, the glacier is steadily retreating: at Montenvers station, it has thinned by 190 meters since 1820.

• Luge Alpine Coaster de Chamonix – This unique experience is fun for the entire family. It’s like a combination roller coaster and bobsled in the heart of the beautiful mountains. Riders board at the bottom of the site and are towed to the start of the downhill run. There’s room for two adults on the secure sled. The 100 meter long track has jumps, turns, and twists giving each rider an incredible sensory experience. Children 3 and up can ride with an adult and older children can ride alone, if they’d like. This is one attraction that we wish we’d had time to do when we were in town. It is definitely on our bucket list for our next trip to Chamonix.

• Paragliding - For those brave enough, you can experience a completely unique view of Chamonix and Mont Blanc by paragliding. Experienced paragliders offer tandem glides over the mountain with breathtaking views and a sensation that is sure to get your adrenaline going. This is a popular activity in Chamonix and, even for those of us not quite brave enough to soar through the skies, it is certainly fun to watch. While not a suitable activity for kids, we found that ours loved watching the brightly colored wings taking to the sky from several take-off points around the town and slowly winging their way down to the valley below. From various points around town, we watched them throughout the day, sometimes counting to see how many were in the sky at any one time. If you’re an adventurer, this might be an activity you’ll want to consider.

• The Merlet Animal Park – Located in nearby Les Houches (about a 10 minute drive from Chamonix) is the Merlet Animal Park. The park, itself, is situated 1,563m above the Chamonix valley offering a stunning panoramic view of Mont Blanc, along with several glaciers and more than 25 other peaks over 4,000m. The park was opened in 1968 and includes 21 hectares of natural animal habitats for more than 80 mountain animals. Most of the species are native to the area including the Ibex, the Chamois, the Marmot, and several species of deer. You’ll also find llamas in the park even though they are native to South America, not Europe. The layout of the park allows the animals to wander free. Visitors can see them in this natural environment without barriers but are strongly encouraged to keep a safe distance. This is one activity that is particularly fun for families because the kids will love the animals while mom and dad can enjoy the incredible views of the surrounding mountains. Please note that reservations are required and the park is open seasonally so some advanced planning is necessary.

Where to Eat

The town of Chamonix has loads of dining options. From takeout to fine cuisine prepared by Michelin star chefs, there are choices for every occasion and budget. We took a break from our activities to grab some lunch at Le Little. We were served at an outdoor table where we enjoyed views of both the mountains and the quaint town square. We each ordered a burger and added a couple orders of fries to share. This restaurant offered several different dipping sauces for our fries and they were all delicious! Our burgers were served basically topped with an entire salad. We had gotten used to the fresh locally sourced meat and produce as we traveled through France. This burger, however, featured shredded carrots along with lettuce, tomato, and cucumber. It was so huge that most of us had to cut it up and eat it more like a salad (or the French way). As far as lunches go, this one was quite memorable, some of us even declaring it the most delicious burger we had in France! 

Unfortunately, this location has closed since our visit but there are several places to get a great burger. One option is La Maison des Burgers which specializes in take-away service and has a huge menu of burgers with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. You can grab a burger and find a seat nearby to enjoy it or take it back to your hotel or Airbnb. There are multiple vegan options in addition to traditional burgers and chicken sandwiches. You could also consider Elevation 1904, which is located across from the train station and serves burgers in addition to French and British cuisine. In the summer, you can enjoy outdoor seating, live music, and a laid-back atmosphere. 

In addition to burgers, there are plenty of other great restaurants in the area. We’re providing some of the notable options but there are so many to choose from in and around Chamonix. Le 3842 offers a unique dining experience. It’s the highest restaurant in town (and one of the highest in Europe), on Aiguille du Midi with stunning views of the area’s mountain peaks. It has a limited menu that changes weekly so there’s always something new and fresh. 

Restaurant Albert 1er is a Michelin Star restaurant that has been serving visitors since 1903. Located in the five star hotel by the same name, the restaurant has a wonderful ambiance, creative and delectable menu, and a vast selection of quality wine. 

For delicious Japanese cuisine and a reasonably priced children’s menu, you should try Satsuki. Here, you’ll find authentic Japanese dishes including Tempura, Tonkatsu, and Sushi prepared by chef Tatsuya Ishizaki. You can even order takeout if you don’t want to try table service with your little ones.

For a truly fun family meal, you might consider driving about 10 minutes from Chamonix for dinner at the RockyPop Restaurant. Located inside the RockyPop hotel in Les Houches, is a family-friendly restaurant with a rock ‘n roll atmosphere and kid-friendly food options. Kids can enjoy pizzas or burgers while mom and dad can choose chef cuisine and enjoy something from the cocktail bar. 

Takeaway

It’s no mystery why Chamonix is such a popular tourist destination! Clearly, avid skiers and mountaineers enjoy the abundant winter sports opportunities. However, we were surprised by how wonderful this town was to visit during the “shoulder season” of fall. Colorful trees, blended with snow-capped mountain peaks, painted the most beautiful views during our visit. We got a taste of winter while we were atop Aiguille du Midi and enjoyed delicious food and stunning views from the valley below. We couldn’t see and do nearly all the things we’d love to have experienced in just a day trip, but our taste of Chamonix left us hungry to return for more adventures in the future.