Île-de-France Region

When we were comparing all of our bucket list items for our 3 month trip to France, one of the places that we ALL agreed on was the Louvre. Of course Rachel, our passionate artist, was tremendously excited, but the rest of us were eager to see what all the fuss was about too. We knew about famous works of art like the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. We were not prepared, however, for the monumental size of this museum and the hundreds of thousands of objects and art pieces displayed there.

History of the Louvre

Originally built as a fortress in the late 12th century, the Louvre has also served as a prison, a royal residence, a grand palace, and finally the most famous museum in the world. Located in the center of Paris, the Musée du Louvre displays nearly 380,000 objects and 35,000 works of art dating from prehistory to the 21st century. It hosts more than 8 million visitors each year which makes it the most visited museum in the world as well.

In 1364, King Charles V decided to use the discarded fortress as a palace. His chief architect, Raymond du Temple, began transforming the building with intricately carved windows and added a beautiful spiral staircase to access the upper floors. A pleasure garden was also added at the north end. In 1546, King Francis I (whom we’ve written about before) renovated the Louvre into a grand palace, adding new buildings and making it his official residence. Henry II had the Salle des Cariatides constructed. The name of the room derives from the four ‘caryatids’ – sculpted female figures – serving as columns. These were made by sculptor Jean Goujon in 1550. His work was inspired by the Forum of Augustus, built by the emperor, in Rome, in the 2nd century BC.

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In 1682, when King Louis XIV left the Louvre Palace and Tuileries to distance himself from the French populace. He took residence at the Palace of Versailles and the Louvre became a place to display the royal collection. During the French Revolution, it was decreed that the Louvre should be used as a museum to display the masterpieces of the nation. The museum opened in 1793 with a collection of 537 paintings. Due to structural issues, it closed its doors from 1796 until 1801.

The Glass Pyramids

The glass pyramids were commissioned in 1983 by President François Mitterand who brought many changes to the Louvre. Designed by I.M. Pei, the pyramids were the architect’s answer to the request for a new grand entrance to accommodate rising numbers of visitors and to help reorganize the museum’s interior. The new entrance opened in March of 1989, which coincided with the bicentennial year of the French Revolution.

The structure is actually composed of 5 separate pyramids. The main pyramid that serves as an entrance in the courtyard has the exact same proportions as the Great Pyramid of Giza. The structure itself is a nod to the number of significant Egyptian artifacts displayed inside the museum. This main pyramid is accompanied by three smaller ones. They have been strategically positioned to create natural light shafts to the museum’s collections. The last pyramid is only visible from underground. It is an upside down, suspended structure that marks the intersection of two main underground walkways beneath the Place du Carrousel.

In total, 673 glass panes were used to create the entire structure. The glass panes are made of diamond and triangle shapes to create the appearance of cut gems. Tourists come from all over the world to visit the Louvre. Even those that never go inside the museum stop to pose for Instagram-worthy photographs at the grand entrance. We loved getting an up-close look at the structure a couple of times during our tour of France.

The glass pyramids project was not always popular. In fact, it was initially hated by the general public. Today, however, the pyramids are loved by both tourists and Parisians. They have even become a tourist attraction of their own. The large glass pyramid at the entrance has become a symbol of the Louvre that is recognized throughout the world.

First Impressions

We had already visited the exterior courtyard of the Louvre about a month prior while we were exploring Paris. We’d taken several photos during that visit and explored the exterior architecture. Rachel even explained to us the history of Grecian column structure thanks to information she’d learned from the art history course she was taking. It fueled our excitement to get inside and see all that the Musée du Louvre has to offer.

On the day of our visit, we took the RER from the Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy station to Châtelet–Les Halles where we could walk to the Louvre. We arrived at around 10am to the main entrance where the glass pyramids welcome visitors. We had purchased our tickets online before arriving so we waited only a short time in the queue before we were able to enter.

Our Louvre Experience

We happened to experience the Louvre during an unprecedented time of low and strictly controlled attendance during the late stages of the pandemic. We had the typical must-see items on our list but we spent a good deal of time wandering and really looking at the exhibits. We didn’t come close to accessing all that the Louvre has to offer, but we were very happy with our experience.

Rachel put a huge priority on seeing Egyptian and Greek artwork so we spent a good deal of time looking at the Egyptian antiquities and Greek sculptures. She loved seeing sculptures of all the Greek gods and goddesses that she’s read so much about thanks to Rick Riordan’s novels. We also really enjoyed spending time wandering among the Roman sculptures which were another high priority Rachel had identified before we even arrived.

During the prior several weeks, we had seen Leonardo da Vinci’s impact on France at the Les Machines de L’ile Nantes museum, Château d’Amboise, and Château de Chambord so it was a lot of  fun to see some of his original works of art hanging in the Louvre. We saw Saint John the Baptist and, of course, the Mona Lisa. Due to lower numbers of visitors, we only had to wait about 10 minutes to get a front row viewing of this most famous painting. We know that waits can often be well over an hour long so our short wait time was certainly unusual. As many others have noted, we were quite shocked by how small the painting was versus our expectations. While we were so thankful to have gotten to see it, we felt that it wasn’t as spectacular as many of the other art pieces we had access to that day, including the largest painting in the Louvre, Les Noces de Cana (The Wedding Feast at Cana), by Paolo Veronese, that is directly across from da Vinci’s most prominent piece. We found this to be very interesting. It speaks to the sheer allure and popularity of the Mona Lisa that the only work of art that seems capable of sitting opposite it is the largest painting in the entire museum!

Limited crowds also enabled us to see many more of the Louvre’s most famous sculptures. We had an up-close, almost private, look at the ancient Greek sculpture – Venus de Milo. We stood in awe of the Winged Victory of Samothrace. The girls were enthralled by Sleeping Hermaphroditus, a sculpture that depicts the body of Hermaphroditus, in which the male of father Hermes and the female of mother Aphrodite coexist harmoniously. (They were all giggles which made us think of our first trip to Las Vegas with them when they saw a replica of The David for the first time.)

The Louvre houses a number of very large paintings. One that we spent some time viewing was The Coronation of Napoleon, by French artist Jacques-Louis David, which is an enormous 33 feet by 20 feet. We also got to see Eugène Delacroix's Liberty Leading the People which is believed to have inspired Victor Hugo's 1862 novel Les Misérables. We were mesmerized by Theodore Gericault’s The Raft of the Medusa, which was a haunting, yet beautiful piece of artwork to see in person.

We spent significant time viewing the French Crown jewels, including the crown of King Louis XV. The crown was created for King Louis XV in 1722 and used at his coronation. Nearly all of the crowns worn by the kings of France, kept in the Basilica of Saint-Denis, were destroyed in 1793 during the French revolution. The crown of Louis XV was the only one to survive and is on display at the Louvre. Also on display were the 140 carat ‘Régent’ diamond; the diadem (tiara) of the Duchess of Angoulême, daughter of King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette; and the crown of Empress Eugénie, ordered by Napoleon III.

Food Options at the Louvre

No outside food is allowed so you’ll want to make sure you eat a hardy meal before arriving. There are several options for snacks and food inside the Louvre. These options range from takeaway sandwiches and snacks, quick service where you grab your food at the counter and find your own table, quaint cafes, and even fine dining. These restaurants are located throughout the vast building with several even located outside in the Tuileries Garden. (Please be aware that your ticket doesn’t allow for re-entry so once you leave the Louvre facility, your visit is over.) We highly suggest that you plan ahead before arriving at the Louvre! Take a look at the dining options before you arrive and make a plan for where and when you want to schedule your break to eat. We failed in this area and found ourselves, once again, experiencing the dreaded “hangry” symptoms that we’ve written about previously.

We chose to eat at Goguette, located in the Richelieu Mezzanine, under the Pyramid. Here, we were served cafeteria-style where we picked up a tray and utensils, made our selections, and then found an available table where we sat to enjoy our meal. It wasn’t the finest French cuisine, but it was quite good for takeaway, quick service and was just the thing we needed to keep our agitation down and energy up for our exploration. We noticed when preparing this post that the restaurant does not have the best reviews. In looking at the comments, most complaints seemed to be from non-French speaking Americans who were confused about how to order or impatient with the process.

We feel this is a good time to point out that the service culture is different in France. As a visitor in a foreign land, you can’t expect the culture to be the same that you’re used to in your hometown. You must have patience and, above all, remember to be polite. A simple  “Bonjour” whenever you approach, and begin to interact with, an employee goes a very long way. Remember to say please with “s’il vous plaît,” and thank them for their service or help with “merci.” A little patience, friendliness, and an acknowledgment of the local, more formal manners, will go a long way toward making your experience the best it can be. (Don’t forget, this is the most visited museum in the world, they’re probably a bit frazzled at times, just as you can be.)

Things You Should Know Before Visiting

Any items exceeding 55 x 35 x 20 cm are not permitted in the museum, so leave those large bags behind when you visit. If you’d like to stow your bag during your visit, there are storage lockers located near the entrance. We took advantage of this service to stow our jackets so we wouldn’t be weighed down by extra items and to keep our hands free for taking photos. It was very convenient and easy to use.

While photography is allowed, there are strict rules that prohibit flash photography and  selfie sticks. You’re also prohibited from photographing staff members. Please be aware of others when you’re taking pictures. The Louvre is most certainly an “Instagram-worthy” location but inconveniencing others while you get your perfect shot is just not in good taste. We saw this “Instagram behavior” many times while traveling throughout France. We get it, it’s exciting to see the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre up close and in person. Take your pictures, enjoy the moment, but please be aware of those around you that are also trying to enjoy their “once-in-a-lifetime” moment.

Admission is free for those under the age of 18. We loved this extended “kids are free” age limit that was prevalent throughout many places in France. In addition, strollers are allowed throughout the property (and there are several elevators to aid getting from floor to floor). Those elevators are also available for visitors who require a wheelchair. Those with physical disabilities are even granted free admission, along with one person to accompany them. Admission to the Tuileries Gardens is also free and includes several fun options for kids, including a carousel, little boats, and trampolines (these do require a paid ticket). There’s even a free admission evening once a month, except for during the months of July and August! The Louvre’s admission policy makes it an accessible location for anyone who wants to visit. For a full explanation of visitors eligible for free admission, click this link.

Once inside the Louvre, make the most of your visit by taking advantage of the amenities offered. You’ll have access to a free wi-fi network which is available under the Pyramid and in the exhibition rooms. The connection lasts for one hour but it can be renewed as many times as needed. If you find yourself in need of a stroller, wheelchair, walking stick, or baby carrier (only front baby carriers are allowed inside), you can borrow these items for free at the visitor assistance area under the Pyramid.

We’ve said this so many times about places that we visited in France but we’re going to say it again. Make sure you take advantage of the audio guide during your visit! It costs about $6 and can be reserved when you book your ticket online. The audio guide at the Louvre comes in the form of a Nintendo 3DS and a set of headphones. With a lanyard attached, it’s easy to carry, available in 9 different languages, and uses geolocation tracking to both help guide you and also to provide specific information for each room and exhibit. You’ll learn key information about the palace and its priceless pieces as you wander. We found these audio guides to be so helpful, during our visit, in holding the attention of our school-aged kids who loved the technology. They loved sharing with us all the fun facts they were learning along the way.

We loved our day at the Louvre! We spent several hours wandering through the exhibits and still didn’t see nearly everything. It was a dream come true for Rachel, (age 13 when we visited) who is passionate about art, mythology, and history. Her giant smiles were ever-present as she saw all the priceless pieces of art everywhere she looked. What surprised us was just how thoroughly Sophie was enthralled by the entire experience. At only 9 years old, she was captivated by the entire experience. We credit the audio tour for keeping her curious mind engaged throughout her visit. I am positive we will be returning as soon as we have the opportunity. Have you ever visited the Louvre? What was your favorite thing? If you haven’t yet visited the world’s largest and most famous museum, we hope we’ve inspired you to get there soon with your family!