Le Château d'Ussé, France
Centre-Val de Loire Region
“Yes, it’s only in my dreams. But they say if you dream a thing more than once, it’s sure to come true.”
Our view of Château d’Ussé as we approached
Originally built as a stronghold in the Middle Ages, Le Château d’Ussé was built in wood and stone on a hillside backed by the Chinon forest. Over the centuries, it has evolved into the beautiful Renaissance castle it is today. It has served as an inspiration for the original fairy tale “La Belle Au Bois Dormant,” upon which the modern-day “Sleeping Beauty” fairy tale is based.
First Impressions
Unlike any of the other châteaux we saw while in France, the route taking us to Château d’Ussé kept us from really seeing it until we were right under the hill upon which it sits. It rose above us in the splendor of the afternoon sunshine. The wooded backdrop of the Chinon Forest really enhanced the beauty of the entire property. We walked through the gate and took a moment to just gaze upon the property.
Click on photo to enlarge and see descriptions.
As we walked the path toward the castle, we were also drawn to the gorgeous chapel that sits adjacent to the château. The Collegiate Chapel of Notre Dame d’Ussé is one of the highlights of any tour here. Named for Saint Anne, the mother of the Virgin Mary, the chapel is a beautiful example of Renaissance architecture. If you have a chance to visit, be sure to take notice of the intricate details carved into the wood and stone.
The setting was gorgeous, and we enjoyed touring the wine cellar, stables, and gardens as much as the castle itself. The wine cellars were carved into the stone hillside of the property. You can still explore the caves that made up the vast wine cellar. On display in the stables were several examples of the modes of transportation used throughout the history of this grand estate. Spread out in front of the castle were the formal French gardens still looking beautiful on an October afternoon. The gardens have been meticulously maintained and were beautiful to gaze upon from the courtyard.
“Sleeping Beauty” Connection
This castle is said to have served as the inspiration for Charles Perrault’s penning of the “Sleeping Beauty” fairy tale. The castle towers featured a walk-through display of the story. Mannequins were arranged throughout the small rooms of the tower to bring several of the scenes and characters from the classic fairy tale to life. The original tale differs somewhat from the familiar Disney interpretation, maintaining its slightly more sinister storyline. It was also quite an experience to encounter an original antique wooden spinning wheel in a tower room of an actual castle.
Famous Visitors
Besides Charles Perrault, the castle has hosted other great figures who have left their historic mark on the place. André Le Nôtre, the gardener and landscape architect best known for his work in the gardens of Versailles, first created the formal gardens at Château d’Ussé. Later, the renowned French writer François-René, vicomte de Chateaubriand, brought Lebanon cedars from the Holy Land to plant in the park. Inside the château, the well-known French architect François Mansart created the beautiful staircase.
Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, later Marquis de Vauban, was a French military engineer under Louis XIV. He was generally considered the greatest engineer of his time and one of the most important engineers in European military history. He transformed the residence with the addition of the pavilion for the wedding of his daughter to the son of the castle’s owner at that time. He also designed the terraces that complete the formal gardens.
All these contributions and additions helped to make this property truly unique for visitors who also added to the history and legacy of this place. The King’s Chamber was occupied by Louis XIV on his many visits to the area. Later, Haïlé Sélassié, the emperor of Ethiopia, made the castle his residence.
While Château d’Ussé is not the most famous castle in the region, it does hold some rich history and played host to some noteworthy visitors. We particularly loved the gardens and it provided us with a nice preview of André Le Nôtre’s work that we would see later when we toured Versailles. We couldn’t help but feel drawn in by the beautiful wooded setting and imagine how peaceful it would be to reside on the property.
Tour of the Main Rooms
We were able to tour several rooms in the main château including the entrance, salon, grand staircase, and the King’s Chamber. The owners have chosen to use mannequins, adorned in period costumes, throughout several of the rooms that visitors can tour. We found this to be just a little strange (and maybe a bit creepy). Aside from that detail, we loved touring this castle and property and were happy to make it the first of our château tours in France.
Château d’Ussé is the only private Loire castle to have been lived in by the same family for more than two centuries. It remains privately owned and is still inhabited by the current owner, the Duke of Blacas, and his family. Much of its 18th century furniture is intact and has been enriched throughout the generations of owners who have resided here. You’ll find a rich collection of Chinese porcelain, weapons, and tapestries on display. Each year a new exhibition of period costumes are displayed in the main rooms of the castle. The property and gardens have also been impeccably maintained and nurtured.
Takeaway
We thoroughly enjoyed our tour of Le Château d’Ussé. The gorgeous and serene natural setting of this property with its surrounding wooded landscape made for an overall wonderful experience that was well worth making the stop. It has an interesting and long history that we enjoyed learning. We also found it to be the least crowded of the three châteaux we toured while in the Loire Valley of France. In addition, if you have little ones, the Sleeping Beauty connection makes it a memorable addition to your trip through the Loire Valley.
After our tour, we enjoyed grabbing a sandwich at the small food shop located adjacent to the parking lot, across the street from the château. The shopkeeper made our sandwiches fresh and we savored the beautiful fall weather while we ate our meal with a stunning view of the beautiful property.
Have you been to Château d’Ussé? We’d love to hear about your visit. Tell us in the comments below. Which châteaux are on your list to visit in the Loire Valley of France?
View of Château d’Ussé from the other side of the bridge into the village
