Normandy Region

“History is not always pessimistic for if World War II Europe has taught us anything, it is that the rebuilding of cities is possible and the mending of a nation’s spirit can be achieved.”

— Aysha Taryam

We arrived in Caen mostly focused on visiting the tomb of William the Conqueror. Along the way, we discovered so much more about this amazing town and its history. From ancient conquerors to its strategic role in WWII to present day, the city of Caen is truly beautiful to behold and well worth a day spent exploring.

Abbey of Saint-Étienne

Founded in 1063 by William the Conqueror, the Abbey of Saint-Étienne (also known as the Abbaye-aux-Hommes) is a magnificent building. Over the centuries, it has served as a Benedictine monastery, a parish church, and a prestigious high school. It is one of the most important Romanesque buildings in the Normandy region.

The abbey was built, using Caen stone, in the French Romanesque style, often referred to in this region as Norman. It includes a sexpartite ribbed vault, which was added in about 1120. This defining architectural feature, and the nine towers and spires added in the 13th century, foreshadow the Gothic style that would become prominent throughout all of Europe through the 16th century.

During the Normandy landings of World War II, citizens of Caen found shelter and protection inside the church. Caen, the capital of Normandy, was a strategic objective for the Allied troops. The Germans defended the stronghold with all the power they had so it took six weeks to liberate the city. While it was a victory, it came with tremendous expense. By the time the fighting ended, over 30,000 Allied troops and 3,000 civilians were dead. We walked through a small exhibit that displayed the impact that the fierce fighting between German and Allied troops had on both the city of Caen and on the church for many years to come.

Click on photo to enlarge and see descriptions.

William the Conqueror

One of the main reasons that we stopped in Caen was to visit the tomb of William the Conqueror. Known as William the Bastard when he became the Duke of Normandy in 1035, he went on to become the first Norman King of England during a particularly tumultuous time in the country’s history. The death of the childless Edward the Confessor (his first cousin, once removed) left a disputed claim for the English throne. On his deathbed, King Edward had named Harold Godwinson, a powerful British earl, as king. William, however, claimed that Edward had previously promised the throne to him. So, in 1066 he built a large fleet and invaded England, defeating and killing King Harold at the Battle of Hastings in October. On December 25th, 1066 he was crowned King of England and officially proclaimed as William the Conqueror.

William’s final years were riddled with difficulties. He died while leading a campaign in northern France in September 1087 and was buried at the Abbey of Saint-Étienne, per his wishes. His tomb has been disturbed many times since the initial burial. The first time was in 1522 on orders from the papacy. The intact body was restored afterwards. In 1562, during the French Wars of Religion, the grave was opened and the original ornate black marble tombstone was destroyed. William’s bones were scattered and lost, with the exception of one thigh bone. That one bone was reburied in 1642 with a new grave stone which was again replaced 100 years later with a more elaborate monument. During the French Revolution, the tomb was once again destroyed, but was replaced with the current stone.

9/11 Exhibit

Our time in Caen was truly memorable. Our visit took place shortly after the 20th anniversary of the 9/11 Attacks. We had the opportunity to tour a temporary exhibit dedicated to the events of that day. This was something we never expected to see while traveling in France and it was very well done! The photos were unbelievable and some of the audio they had captured took our breath away! I felt like I’d just gone back in time and was reliving the horror of that day. Ellie (who was only 4 years old at the time of the attack) and I both found ourselves in tears.

It was a poignant experience to have our two youngest daughters walk through the display and witness the emotions that the adults were having from these images. What a powerful experience for all of us. I think sometimes we, as Americans, have an unfair image of the French as inhospitable toward us. We were moved by how well this country, halfway across the world, had documented the event. This is just one example of the compassion and kindness that we experienced many times while traveling in France. It was a testament to how the world was watching the US and offering support and empathy from afar.

Le Chat Sculpture Exhibition

We were also very fortunate to witness a special exhibit being installed on the grounds of the Abbey while we were there. A series of sculptures by Belgian artist and cartoonist Philippe Geluck were being set into place at the entrance when we arrived. The series featured Le Chat (or Le Cat, as he is sometimes called), a humorous suit-wearing cat character known for his deadpan commentary on life’s absurdities. Le Chat was created (or born as Geluck says) on March 22, 1983 for the French-language Belgian daily newspaper, “Le Soir,” and featured in more than 8,000 “CatCartoons” for the paper before his final appearance there on his 30th birthday. Sophie was particularly enthralled by the work. Many of the sculptures even had water features that were being turned on by the time we left.

If you would like to learn more about Le Chat and his artist, Philippe Geluck, follow this link to explore his official website: Philippe Geluck

The Rest of Our Time in Caen

We spent some time wandering the streets of Caen and found a wonderful place to eat lunch. We ordered burgers and fries and were delighted to have one of the best tasting burgers we’ve ever had. We discovered as we traveled France that the use of fresh, locally sourced meat and produce yielded some truly delicious meals. Our burgers were so fresh and the sauce that came with our fries was wonderful.

With our bellies full, we headed back to our car with a quick pit stop in the free toilet facilities nearby. This was one of our first experiences with these self-cleaning restrooms. I may have to do an entire post on this topic alone. Let’s just say that as free facilities go, this might have been one of the cleanest that we encountered on our journey.

Overall, Caen was an emotional and educational experience for all of us. We learned some interesting history, experienced beautiful art, and re-lived 9/11 memories. We also got some exercise and dined on delicious food. A stop in Caen is a must when touring the Normandy Region of France!

A Tour of Caen, France